12/27/2017

Video: Rock Climbing Norway with Magnus Midtbo (Oh! And Alex Honnold Too! Sort of!)

In this video we head to Norway to take on some of that country's big walls with talented rock climber Magnus Midtbo. As you can imagine, the scenery is pretty epic, and Magnus gets a chance to show off his skills on some amazing rock faces. But, the headline for the video also implies that Alex Honnold is along for the ride, which really isn't the case. Sure, he shows up briefly, but then is quickly gone, so don't expect to see these two men doing too much together. Still, it is a nice look at some of the challenges that Norway has to offer.

12/25/2017

Winter Climbs 2014: Settling Into Base Camp And Close Call On Nanga Parbat

The focus of the winter climbing season in the Himalaya remains squarely on Nanga Parbat this year, with several teams attempting to complete the first winter ascent of that mountain. While conditions were less than favorable around the start of the New Year, things have improved somewhat now and acclimatization rotations have begun. The mountaineers have a considerable amount of work ahead of them in the weeks ahead, although one team narrowly averted disaster already and have had their decision to leave the mountain reaffirmed.

Last week I reported that German climber Ralf Dujmovits had decided to abandon his attempt at a solo summit on Nanga. While surveying the route, he noticed that there were two ice towers hanging over his intended path and he realized he would spend more than a day and a half climbing in their shadow. The two towers looked very precarious, as if they could collapse at any time, so Ralf decided he risk just wasn't worth the effort and decided to pack up his things and go home. Just a day after making that decision, Dujmovits and Polish climber Darek Zaluski narroly avoided an avalanche on the Diamir Face. Ralf wrote to Stefan Nestler about the incident saying that the duo were "very lucky" to have escaped unharmed. The two men descended to BC safely and are now presumably on their way back home.

Over on the Rupal Face, the team of Simone Moro, Emilio Previtali and David Gottler have been in BC for a bit over a week now. Simone and David have both spent a night at Camp 1 as they begin their acclimatization process, while also shuttling gear up the slope. In a recent update to their blog, they reported on the journey to BC, where they indicated that security on the road leading to the mountain is quite high. Following a high profile attack by terrorists in the Nanga Parbat Base Camp this past summer – during which 3 Pakistani soldiers and 10 foreign climbers were killed – officials in Pakistan are keen to make sure everyone is safe moving forward. To that end, the climbers received a military escort to the mountain, and a guard station with ten soldiers now sits along the road that leads to the peak. That level of security will hopefully allow the teams to climb without fear of another attack and simply concentrate on the mountain itself.


There have been few updates from the Polish "Justice For All" team in the past week. In the last report, they were preparing to fix ropes up to 6000 meters (19,685 ft), with several team members already acclimatizing above 5000 meters (16,404 ft). Whether or not those rope fixing efforts have been successful has yet to be determined, but it seems likely that they would have completed the task by now, provided the weather has been cooperative.

Finally, Italian climber Daniele Nardi is preparing to arrive on Nanga Parbat soon. He'll attempt a solo summit along the Diamir Face starting in late January. After properly acclimatizing, he intends to climb in alpine style, while avoiding any sense of competition with any of the other teams.

It interesting to see so much attention focused on a single mountain this winter. With all of the other 8000 meter peaks now climbed in winter – save K2 – it seems Nanga is the prize that most are interested in. Considering the number of fatalities during the winter season in recent years, it would appear that unless there is a potential first ascent to be had, most climbers have decided the risks just aren't worth the rewards. If Nanga Parbat is finally climbed in the winter, the same level of attention could then be focused on K2, a mountain that is far more treacherous to climb at any time of the year.

Stay tuned for more updates as warranted.

12/23/2017

Gear Closet: Travel Tech From iClever

As someone who travels frequently for his job, I'm always on the look out for new items that can help make my life on the road more convenient and enjoyable. That often takes the form of some new tech gadget that is designed specifically with travelers in mind. Recently, I received a number of products from a company called iClever that definitely meet that description, delivering some great features at prices that are very affordable. Here's some thoughts on what I tested.

USB Wall Chargers (Prices Vary)
When traveling these days we usually carry a variety of tech gear with us. Everything from smartphones to tablets to digital cameras, not to mention portable game systems, e-readers, GPS devices, and host of other items. While each of them are wonderful for helping us to stay informed and entertained while on long flights or spending time in a tent, those gadgets are only useful as long as they can hold a charge. Fortunately, practically everything these days is charged using USB cables, and iClever offers some excellent wall chargers to help keep your technology up and running.

I received the 4-port BoostCube and 2-Port BoostCube, both of which function pretty much identically, other than the number of gadgets they can charge at the same time. Both of the chargers have SmartID technology that automatically detects the fastest speed your device can be charged, and adjusts the wattage provided accordingly. They both also have the ability to provide 2.4 amps per port, which means your gadgets will be powered up as quickly as possible. Similar devices from competitors often split the power between ports, increasing charge times as a result.


Both models of the BoostCube offer great build quality and feel great in your hand. They're also durable and include foldout power plugs for inserting them into wall outlets. They are also priced perfectly, with the 4-port model selling for $17.99 while the 2-port version is just $10.99.

Additionally, iClever also has a single port version called the BoostCube Quick Charge, which has the ability to power up a device up to four times faster than regard chargers. It uses a special process that is safe for your gadgets, and can power them up to 80% of their full charge in as little as 35 minutes. When you need to get your phone up and running as quickly as possible, this is the charger you'll want. And at $16.99, it is affordable too.

All of the chargers come with a full year warranty and work great. In fact, I've gotten to the point where I leave my devices' OEM chargers at home and just carry iClever's versions with me instead. Because they are small, compact, and easy to use, they make great travel accessories for sure.

Tri-Folding Bluetooth Keyboard ($54.99)
As a travel writer who routinely finds himself in a remote destination, I'm always looking for ways to cut weight from my bags. For instance, I often like to leave my laptop at home and just take my iPad along with me instead. The problem is, the onscreen keyboard isn't always the best for getting serious work done. That's where the iClever Folding Bluetooth Keyboard comes in handy.

This product is lightweight, yet very durable. So much so, that I wouldn't hesitate to take it with me anywhere I'm going. The keyboard is cleverly designed to fold up into a surprisingly small footprint, but when it is opened it transforms into a full-sized keyboard. The device actually allows me to easily get work done, using productivity apps on my tablet to write stories and articles, take notes, even compose emails.

The keyboard comes with a built-in rechargeable battery that takes about 4 hours to fully power up, but can provide up to 80 hours of actual wireless use. It can also be connected to your laptop or desktop computer via USB to serve as a standard keyboard for those devices too. It even has a fantastic backlight mode (with three different colors) that makes it easier to use in the dark. But the backlighting eats into the battery life, so I tend to work with it off.

iClever sells the keyboard for $54.99 and ships it with a soft carrying case, making it even easier to take with you on the road.

Outdoor Wireless Speaker ($29.99)
These days, Bluetooth speakers are a dime a dozen, with plenty of good options for consumers to choose from. But iClever's Outdoor Wireless Speaker offers a few nice features that help set it apart from the competition and make it a good option for travelers and outdoor enthusiasts. For instance, it is lightweight, compact in size, and offers IP65 water resistance. That's enough protection from moisture that you can even use it in the shower if you'd like.

The speaker comes equipped with a rechargeable lithium-ion battery that can power it for up to 10 hours. It offers solid performance with clear playback of music across the full audio spectrum, even at higher lives of volume. And since it is built to survive in the outdoors, you can take it with you to the beach, a remote campsite, or for use around a hotel room without fear of damaging it.

What I like most about this speaker is that it isn't overly large or heavy, which means you can toss it into your pack without really realizing that its there. And while it offers solid battery life, I wouldn't mind getting more hours out of it so I don't have to worry about it running out of juice while in the backcountry. But the price is great and the performance is very good too, making it a great travel buddy for sure.

Find out more about all of these products and more at iClever.com.

Video: Meet the Hippos of Colombia

In 1980, drug lord Pablo Escobar brought several hippos from Africa to his compound in Colombia. It turns out that the environment there was very similar to their natural habitat, and the creatures adapted quite well to their new home. But later, when Escobar was finally brought down and taken in for justice, the animals were left to their own devices. Now, they are cared for by a local conservation organization, and they continue to thrive in the South American jungle. This video tells their story.

What's it Like to Climb Everest Without Oxygen?

For most climber hoping to summit the world's highest peak, donning a tank of oxygen is simply the only way to get to the top. Without supplemental oxygen, most of the more than 4000 people who have topped out on Everest wouldn't have made it, including Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, who first climbed the mountain back in 1953. But it would be two other legendary climbers who would follow in their footsteps 25 years later who would show the mountaineering community that there was another way to scale the Big Hill, and n the process they shocked the world. 

Back in 1978 most people thought that the idea of climbing Everest without oxygen was ludicrous. In fact, there may have just been two men on the entire planet that thought it was possible. They were Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler, who traveled to the North Side of the mountain that year to attempt the impossible. They faced a myriad of challenges along the way, including food poisoning, and winds that reached 125 mph (201 km/h), on top of the usual difficulties. And all of that came before their historic summit push without using bottled O's. 

National Geographic Adventure has shared a great story about that historic ascent, including a video of Messner recalling what it was like for them on that climb. Today, a summit without supplemental oxygen remains somewhat rare, but back in 1978 Messner and Habeler might as well have been going to the moon. But their success changed the face of modern mountaineering, to the point that there are some who now believe using oxygen on Everest takes away from the purity of the climb, and is almost a form of cheating. 

Read the story in its entirety here, and not only learn about Messner and Habeler's climb, but two other alpinists who are hoping to repeat the feat this year. 

12/20/2017

Himalaya Spring 2016: Slovak Climbers Stranded on Everest, Summit Push Begins

The time is now on Everest, where a number of teams are now on the move with the hopes of making a final push to the summit later this week. Meanwhile, we get word today that a pair of climbers are stranded on the mountain following an avalanche, with rescue operations underway.

According to The Himalayan Times, Slovak climbers Vladimír Štrba and Zoltán Pál were attempting to go up the South-West Face of Everest above Camp 2 when an avalanche hit, injuring one of the men. Which of the two is hurt, and the accident of those injuries is unknown, but it s believed that the other climber is healthy and fine.

Unfortunately, they are unable to descend under their own power, so a group of four Sherpas were sent up to try to help. They reached C2, but have been unable to go up the South-West route due to unstable conditions on the mountain. Rescue helicopters have since been brought in to try to lend a hand, but they have been unable to locate them so far. Poor weather hampered further attempts and for now the rescue effort has stalled until morning.

In other Everest news, the rope fixing teams have now installed the lines up to the South Col and expect to reach the summit tomorrow. Once they do, the first of the guided teams will begin their final push to the top, which means we could see the first summits of the season as early as Thursday or Friday of this week. That is a bit ahead of schedule, and considering the weather forecasts indicate good weather well into next week, we could see summits coming at a slow, steady pace. That will be good for the safety of the climbers, and will hopefully prevent traffic jams on the Hillary Step or higher.


On the North Side of the mountain in Tibet, the story is a similar one. Ropes have been fixed nearly all the way to the summit, with work expected to wrap up there in the next day or two. After that, the teams on that side of the mountain will launch their summit bids as well, and since there are fewer teams climbing from Tibet, the fear of large crowds is greatly reduced. Those squads are acclimated and ready to go, and have already started getting themselves into position.

Finally, ExWeb is reporting that a summit bid is well underway on Manaslu as well, with the team of Peter Hámor and Horia Colibasanu head up to the summit tonight. The weather is reportedly favorable, and the duo are climbing without oxygen or Sherpa support as they make their final bid. If successful, it will be Hámor's 13th 8000-meter peak.

Good luck to everyone as they set off to their respective summits.

Update: Success on Manaslu confirmed on Manaslu. ExWeb is also now reporting that Peter and Horia have now topped out along the standard route, and are now descending along the Japanese route. Hopefully they'll both get back down safely after what was reportedly a very tough ascent.

12/19/2017

Video: Meet The Snow Guardian

Meet billy barr (yes, that's how he spells it!), a man who has lived alone in a cabin near Gothic, Colorado for 40 years. Over that time, he has been keeping meticulous records of the weather, how much snow has fallen, what the temperature on any given day is, and so on. Those records are now proving invaluable to climate scientists, who view billy as an invaluable resource. This is his story, as told by National Geographic.