Winter Climbs 2014: Settling Into Base Camp And Close Call On Nanga Parbat

The focus of the winter climbing season in the Himalaya remains squarely on Nanga Parbat this year, with several teams attempting to complete the first winter ascent of that mountain. While conditions were less than favorable around the start of the New Year, things have improved somewhat now and acclimatization rotations have begun. The mountaineers have a considerable amount of work ahead of them in the weeks ahead, although one team narrowly averted disaster already and have had their decision to leave the mountain reaffirmed.

Last week I reported that German climber Ralf Dujmovits had decided to abandon his attempt at a solo summit on Nanga. While surveying the route, he noticed that there were two ice towers hanging over his intended path and he realized he would spend more than a day and a half climbing in their shadow. The two towers looked very precarious, as if they could collapse at any time, so Ralf decided he risk just wasn't worth the effort and decided to pack up his things and go home. Just a day after making that decision, Dujmovits and Polish climber Darek Zaluski narroly avoided an avalanche on the Diamir Face. Ralf wrote to Stefan Nestler about the incident saying that the duo were "very lucky" to have escaped unharmed. The two men descended to BC safely and are now presumably on their way back home.

Over on the Rupal Face, the team of Simone Moro, Emilio Previtali and David Gottler have been in BC for a bit over a week now. Simone and David have both spent a night at Camp 1 as they begin their acclimatization process, while also shuttling gear up the slope. In a recent update to their blog, they reported on the journey to BC, where they indicated that security on the road leading to the mountain is quite high. Following a high profile attack by terrorists in the Nanga Parbat Base Camp this past summer – during which 3 Pakistani soldiers and 10 foreign climbers were killed – officials in Pakistan are keen to make sure everyone is safe moving forward. To that end, the climbers received a military escort to the mountain, and a guard station with ten soldiers now sits along the road that leads to the peak. That level of security will hopefully allow the teams to climb without fear of another attack and simply concentrate on the mountain itself.


There have been few updates from the Polish "Justice For All" team in the past week. In the last report, they were preparing to fix ropes up to 6000 meters (19,685 ft), with several team members already acclimatizing above 5000 meters (16,404 ft). Whether or not those rope fixing efforts have been successful has yet to be determined, but it seems likely that they would have completed the task by now, provided the weather has been cooperative.

Finally, Italian climber Daniele Nardi is preparing to arrive on Nanga Parbat soon. He'll attempt a solo summit along the Diamir Face starting in late January. After properly acclimatizing, he intends to climb in alpine style, while avoiding any sense of competition with any of the other teams.

It interesting to see so much attention focused on a single mountain this winter. With all of the other 8000 meter peaks now climbed in winter – save K2 – it seems Nanga is the prize that most are interested in. Considering the number of fatalities during the winter season in recent years, it would appear that unless there is a potential first ascent to be had, most climbers have decided the risks just aren't worth the rewards. If Nanga Parbat is finally climbed in the winter, the same level of attention could then be focused on K2, a mountain that is far more treacherous to climb at any time of the year.

Stay tuned for more updates as warranted.

Winter Climbs 2016: Playing the Waiting Game on Nanga Parbat

The winter season has arrived in full force on Nanga Parbat, where a handful of teams are still hoping to complete the first winter ascent of that mountain. Unfortunately, their chances don't look good over the next few days, as a massive storm has arrived in the region bringing high winds, extremely cold temperatures, and plenty of snow with it. So for now, the climbers are all stuck in Base Camp, waiting for a weather window open. That isn't expected to happen for another few days at the earliest, but after that another summit push could potentially begin.

Perhaps the biggest news from the mountain is that the Polish Justice For All team has left the Rupal Face and are heading for home. The squad was the first to arrive on Nanga this winter, and had been making steady progress, even reaching as high as 7500 meters (24,606 ft). But upon descending, they team realized that they were running low on essential supplies, and that their time was getting short. With bad weather in the forecast, they knew they wouldn't get another chance, so they elected to leave BC last week.

The Rupal Face hasn't been completely abandoned however, as just as the Poles were departing, another climber arrived. Brazil-born, U.S. citizen Cleo Weidlich reached Base Camp late last week, bringing three Nepali Sherpas along with her. She's hoping to become the first to stand on the summit of Nanga Parbat in winter, but will be doing so in a light and fast fashion. Reportedly, she acclimatized in Nepal before heading to Pakistan, but her late arrival puts the potential for success in question.

Over on the Kinshofer Route, two strong teams have now officially joined forces. A five-person group consisting of Alex Txikon, Daniele Nardi, Ali Sadpara, Simone Moro, and Tamara Lunger are cooperating with one another in an attempt to reach the top. For now though, they are all huddled together in BC, waiting for the weather to clear. Alex, Daniele, and Ali are acclimated and ready to go, although Simone and Tamara may need a bit more time at altitude before they are ready.

For now, each of the teams is sitting, waiting, and watching the weather. The forecasts calls for conditions to remain mostly unchanged until the weekend, but after that things are a bit murky. As you can imagine, conditions have to be right to climb Nanga Parbat during the summer, let alone the harsh winter season. And as of right now, it looks like the first winter ascent is as far off as it has ever been.

Winter Climbs 2014: Bad Weather Keeps Teams In BC On Nanga Parbat

It is a new week on Nanga Parbat, but the news largely remains the same. Bad weather is keeping the teams in Base Camp while they await the next weather window. In these anxious times, they find ways to stay busy, while keeping fit and well acclimatized to the altitude. It can be very frustrating, but this is what it is like to climb in the Himalaya in the winter, and these veteran mountaineers are accustomed to it.

On the Rupal Face, both the Polish team and the North Face squad have settled back into BC while they wait. The two teams attempted a summit push late last week, but the window was slammed shut when high winds and cold temperatures enveloped the summit. Those conditions have not dissipated yet, as temperatures on top of Nanaga are said to be in the -70ºC/-94ºF range. That is far too cold for anyone to attempt a summit push, hence the reason they are all waiting for the next opportunity. It is tough to say when that opportunity will come however, as the forecast says that it will get worse before it gets better.

While they are in Base Camp, the climbers have been finding ways to occupy their time. The TNF team has been editing photos and videos, and making back-up copies of their work, while also trekking nearby. They have also been reading, sending emails, and resting too. The Poles have brought a drone to Nanga this winter, and it has provided some diversion during the day. The batteries only last about 20 minutes however, and they are slow to recharge using the generator or solar cells. The little aircraft also crashed hard last week, requiring extensive repairs. Fortunately, a little tape and ingenuity had it back in the air in no time.

Jumping over to the Diamir Face, Daniele Nardi has wrapped up his acclimatizatiton process and is waiting for a summit attempt too. He shared some details of his recent summit of Ganalo Peak, which was a good warm-up for the main event – his solo, alpine style attempt on Nanga. Once he is fully rested from that climb, he'll watch the forecasts and prepare for his push as well.

With nasty weather arriving on the mountain over the next few days, it looks like it will be the weekend, at the earliest, before another summit push can get underway. Stay tuned for updates. I'll post them as they come in.

Family Dedicates Website To Climber Lost On Nanga Parbat

Much like this winter climbing season, last year at this time I was posting frequent updates on the teams who were attempting to summit 8000 meter peaks in the coldest, harshest months of the year. One of the climbers that I followed closely was a Joël Wischnewski, a French climber and snowboarder who was attempting a solo summit on Nanga Parbat. Reading his posts from the mountain were both a joy and a challenge. It was clear that he loved being in the mountains, but it was evident that he was struggling physically and emotionally. Eventually those updates from Nanga stopped, and we all feared the worst. For days the mountaineering community held out hope that Joël would appear safe and sound, having lost power to his satellite phone or some other issue. But as time went by, we all acknowledged that the mountain had claimed the life of another climber.

This past fall, Joël's body was discovered on Nanga Parbat by a group of climbers. Eventually, it was brought down the mountain and laid to rest in the Herrligkoffer climber's cemetery, closing the last chapter on his life and hopefully providing some closure for his family too. I'm sure not knowing his ultimate fate was a challenge.

Now, his family has posted a note on Joël's website, dedicating it in his honor. They have also shared a link to the photos that he had taken while climbing on Nanga Parbat. Those images were found on Joël's camera when his body was discovered. The photos are beautiful and serve as a lasting legacy of a young man who loved to climb and was taken from his loved ones at too early an age.

Joël's family asked me to share these links with readers, many of whom no doubt followed his expedition last year. I am happy to do so now, so that we can choose to remember him as the talented and ambitious climber that he was. He perished doing what he loved most, and I continue to offer condolences to his family.

Winter Climbs 2014: Summit Push Round 2 On Nanga Parbat

The weather continues to be dicey on Nanga Parbat, where the teams have been in Base Camp for most of the week, waiting for a shift in conditions. It seems there may be an opportunity to make a summit bid coming this weekend, so with that in mind, two of the squads are on the move ahead of a potential weather window. If that window opens, we could see the first winter ascents of Nanga on Saturday.

The Polish Justice For All team has sent Tomek Mackiewicz and Pawel Dunaj up the mountain and after safely reaching Camp 1 yesterday, they are now halfway between C1 and C2 today. The same duo were part of the summit push last week, but were turned back due to high winds and extremely cold temperatures. They report that the summit is still shrouded in clouds, but elsewhere around the mountain it is calm. On Saturday, winds on the summit are expected to drop to 30 km/h (18 mph), which is about as quiet as Nanga will get in the winter.

Meanwhile, the North Face team is also on the move and looking to take advantage of this potential weather window. Simone Moro and David Göttler also reached Camp 1 yesterday and are with the Poles at their intermediate camp today. Their reports indicate it took them just 2.5 hours to move from BC to C1, which is a sign that conditions are far better than they were last week and the boys are more acclimatized as well. That bodes well as they continue their push upwards over the next few days, although it should be noted that no one has been above 7100 meters (23,293 ft) yet, so there could be difficult conditions above that point that have yet to be discovered.

Jumping over to the Diamir Face, Italian climber Daniele Nardi is close to wrapping up his acclimatization work on Genalo Peak. If the weather holds out for him, he should complete that process in the next day or two, then return to Base Camp before launching his alpine style summit attempt when the weather permits.

The forecasts indicate that this new weather window will be a narrow one. It will probably only last for two days tops, which is why the climbers are moving into position now. They'll have to make a dash for the summit and get back down as quickly as possible, or risk getting caught in poor conditions on the more exposed portions of the climb. I suspect that if there is a chance at reaching the summit, the Poles and the North Face team will work together on that final go. For now, we'll just have to wait to see what happens. Keep your fingers crossed that these men get back down safely, summit or no.

Winter Climbs 2016: A Team Departs Nanga Parbat

The biggest story of the winter climbing season is of course the on going efforts on Nanga Parbat, where multiple teams are attempting to become the first squad to complete an ascent of that mountain during the coldest, harshest season of all. So far, there has been stead progress made on a number of routes, and the weather has been mostly favorable. But things are starting to change, and the conditions that Nanga is so well known for have begun to appear at last. And if that wasn't enough, one of the teams has already decided to pull the plug on their expedition, returning home before they ever had a chance to go for the summit. 

The duo of Adam Bielecki and Jacek Czech have left Nanga Parbat following a couple of set backs, most prominently amongst them is the fact that Jacek has been ill for some time now, and Adam suffered an injury to his hand last week when fellow climber Daniele Nardi fell while the duo were fixing hopes to Camp 3. (See video here) On top of that, the duo had hoped to make a light and fast, alpine style climb, but were unprepared for everything this big mountain had to throw at them. With resources already tight, and the weather starting to turn, they elected to leave instead. But Bielecki has vowed to return, saying he has caught the "Nanga Parbat bug." Perhaps we'll see him on the mountain again soon as a result. 

For his part, Italian climber Daniele Nardi suffered minor injuries as a result of the fall too. He is resting in BC to allow his body to overcome some aches and pains in his back and neck that were the result of his 80 meter (262 ft) drop. Nardi is feeling lucky to be alive, but he remains on the mountain pressing ahead with his attempt nonetheless. 

Meanwhile, the Polish Justice For All team is reporting high winds on the Schell Route. They squad has attempted to shuttle gear up to Camp 3, but has run head-on into the jet stream instead. They report sustained winds of 100 km/h (62 mph), which is making it nearly impossible to make any kind of progress at the moment. They're currently waiting out the weather with the hopes of going up again soon. 

Alex Txikon and Ali Sadpara are continuing to make progress on the Kinshofer Route. Yesterday the fixed another 500 meters of rope above Camp 2 as they continue to work their way towards what will eventually be C3. They now have ropes in place to take them up to 6500 meters (21,325 ft), and after spending the night in C2 will now descend to Base Camp for some much needed rest and recuperation before starting up again. Incoming weather will probably keep them in place for a few days at least. 

Finally, ExWeb is reporting that Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol have launched a potential summit bid on the mountain. The duo set out from BC on Saturday and are now making their way up the mountain. If the continue to make good progress, and the weather cooperates, they have the potential to complete the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat later in the week. We'll just have to be patient to see if that happens, but of course I'll keep readers updated at the story unfolds. Tomek and Elisabeth are notorious for going as light as possible on their expeditions, and as a result they often don't take a sat phone or other equipment to keep us updated. For now, we'll just have to wait until we get more news. 

Winter Climbs 2016: Comings and Goings on Nanga Parbat

There has been little movement on Nanga Parbat since I wrote my last update at the beginning of last week. The teams are still mostly stuck in Base Camp where they are waiting for the weather to improve. With such a long delay, they may even have to acclimatize again before attempting the summit, although it remains to be seen if they will even get the chance. With five weeks to go in the season, time is starting to run short, particularly since the weather has been brutal for a few weeks now. But, the climbers that are on the mountain remain firmly in place, and are waiting for the opportunity to move up should the chance present itself.

Despite the fact that there has been little movement since the start of the month, there is still news to report however. For example, Italian climber Daniele Nardi has now departed BC following his much publicized dispute with teammate Alex Txikon. The two had a falling out over the logistics of their expedition, and as a result Nardi has now gone home. Meanwhile, Txikon has stayed behind and is working with Ali Sadpara, Simone Moro, and Tamara Lunger to continue working towards achieving the first winter ascent of the mountain.

While one climber has left, another is planning his return. Polish mountaineer Tomek Mackiewicz made an early season attempt on the mountain with Elisabeth Revol, but the two abandoned their efforts at the end of January. Revol has gone back to France, but Tomek has remained in Pakistan, and has been finding it difficult to get out due to an ongoing strike there. So, rather than head home, he has decided to go back to Nanga Parbat instead. He is still sorting out the details of his return, but he may already be back in BC and planning his next summit bid.

Finally, Brazilian-born American climber Cleo Weidlich is reportedly still on the Rupal Face although there has been no update on her progress. She is climbing with a group of Nepalese Sherpas, but it is unclear whether or not they have gone higher than Base Camp as of yet, although it seems likely that weather conditions are keeping them grounded too.

More news as it comes.

Video: Adam Bieleki and Daniele Nardi Have an Accident on Nanga Parbat

We've been following the unfolding winter climbing season on Nanga Parbat very closely this year, as four teams are working hard to complete the first ascent of that mountain. One of those teams had a close call yesterday when Polish climber Adam Bieleki took a fall will attempting to reach Camp 2 on the mountain. Fortunately, his partner Daniele Nardi was on hand to help anchor him in, and prevent the accident from becoming a tragedy.

Following the incident Adam posted a message on Facebook which reads:

Nanga is not an indulgent type... Third attempt towards C2 and another adventure. I took a fall with torn fixed rope. Fortunately Daniele was securing me with second rope. In spite of long fall I'm ok just with slightly battered right hand. We're in base licking our wounds, following weather forecasts and contemplating our options. Greetings, Adam & Jacek

The video below was shot from their GoPro cameras while making the ascent to C2. While it does not thankfully show the fall, it does give you an indication of what it is like on this mountain. The slopes are steep and covered in ice, with a long, treacherous drop behind them. Needless to say, it is not a place for the inexperienced mountaineer.

At one point in the video Adam and Daniele discuss the fall. Bieleki believes that he dropped at least 70 meters (230 feet), if not more. Fortunately he came away relatively unscathed, but I imagine he'll be spending some time in BC resting and recovering before going back up. It sounds like it was quite a scary situation. Thankfully, everyone is alright.

Video: An Expedition to Nanga Parbat with Simone Moro and David Göttler

In the winter of 2014, alpinists Simone Moro and David Göttler traveled to Pakistan to attempt the first ascent of Nanga Parbat in the winter. They failed in completing that objective, which is why we are closely following the teams that are on that mountain once again this year. To give you a better idea of what an expedition of this kind is like, check out the video below. It follows Simone and David throughout the course of their journey, giving us a glimpse of the conditions that climbers face on this incredibly difficult peak. After watching it, you'll understand why Nanga and K2 remain the only 8000 meters peaks that have yet to be climbed in winter.

Winter Climbs 2014: Daniele Nardi In Nanga Base Camp

As expected, the weather has taken a turn for the worse on Nanga Parbat, at least on the Rupal Face. And while teams on that side of the mountain seek shelter back in Base Camp, Italian Daniele Nardi has begun the all important acclimatization process as he starts his solo, alpine style ascent along the Diamir Route.

Nardi arrived in BC on Tuesday and  immediately went to work constructing his campsite, which he is sharing with a few porters and support staff. He indicates that the weather on his side of the mountain is good, although there is lots of snow on the ground. All of that powder made it a challenge just to get to Base Camp, but it seems conditions are good at that point.

Yesterday he donned a pair of skis and began traveling up the mountain. It was just an up-and-back to test his legs and lungs while scouting the route ahead. There is heavy snow on the upper slopes as well, but Nardi is prepared for those conditions. It is winter after all. With his first acclimatization hike out of the way, he will likely go back up today. The weather forecast indicates that high winds and more snow is in the forecast for the next few days, so he'll likely be back in BC and getting comfortable there through the weekend.


Meanwhile, on the other side of the mountain, the North Face team of Simone Moro, David Göttler and Emilio Previtali are all back in Base Camp following an acclimatization rotation that took Simone and David up to Camp 3, located at 6800 meters (22,309 ft). They fixed ropes nearly to the Mazeno Ridge, and now that milestone location is within easy reach over the next few days, provided the weather cooperates.

Simone indicates that the route is very ice this year, making for a more difficult and technical climb than they have seen in the past. There are sections of the mountain that are vary treacherous, particularly when the winds increase, as they are expected to do this weekend.

For there part, the Polish Justice For All team is pressing ahead with their plan of attack too, which could include an attempt on the summit early next week. They have built an intermediate camp between C2 and C3, where they can rest while working their way through the more technical sections of the climb.

The Poles intend to push up to 7000 meters (22,965 ft) and dig a snow cave to help shelter than from the high winds that are expected to hit on Sunday. The forecast says those winds could exceed 100 km/h (62 mph) but once the storm passes, there is a period of relative calm in the days ahead. The Polish team would like to be in position to make a summit push right after the winds subside, so if possible, they intend to bivouac in the snow cave, then make an immediate summit push right after. Whether or not they'll be able to pull that off remains to be seen.

The stage is now set on Nanga Parbat. All of the climbers are now on the mountain and there are possible summit attempts to come next week. But this mountain won't be tamed easily, and the weather remains a wild card as always. We'll just have to wait and watch to see if the first winter ascent will come this season.

Winter Climbs 2014: Acclimatizing And Waiting On Nanga Parbat

It has been about a week since I posted my last update on the winter expeditions to Nanga Parbat. During that time, very little has changed as the climbers watch the sky and hope for a weather window to open. The days are spend reading forecasts and hoping for a glimpse of the summit, but at the moment it is shrouded in clouds and more elusive than ever.

On the Rupal face, the teams went as high as 7000 meters before powerful winds and unpredictable weather forced them back to Base Camp. That's where they are now, waiting for their opportunity to come. Last week there was some thought that the weather might clear early in the week, giving the teams a shot at going for the summit. The Polish Justice For All team even talked about moving up to be in position to make a possible summit bid. At the moment, it doesn't seem that that weather has relented at all, so they remain in BC. It looks like it could be the weekend before there is any chance of things breaking up, so once again patience is proving to be their strongest quality.

Also in BC, is the North Face squad led by Simone Moro. Their latest updates indicate they've been resting and trying hard not to obsess over weather report, while visiting with their friendly neighbors. The two groups swap stories, share experiences, and offer insights to this formidable mountain that they have all come to conquer. Whether or not they'll actually get a chance to stand on the summit remains to be seen.

Over on the Diamir route, Italian climber Daniele Nardi hasn't been resting on his laurels in Base Camp. He arrived there just last week and immediately went to work on his acclimatization process. He's been climbing and skiing on nearby Ganalo Peak, and he seems happy with his progress thus far. Once he finishes the process of getting his body ready for the higher altitudes, he will launch his attempt at a solo summit in alpine style. That is probably still a week or two away from starting, but he seems to be making good progress, despite surprisingly steep glaciers and more crevasses on the mountain this year.

That's about all there is to report at the moment. The teams are mostly waiting for the weather to improve, and in the meantime they are resting, eating and preparing to go back up the mountain. Hopefully things will clear soon and they resume the climb.

Karakoram 2016: K2 Ramps Up, Nanga Parbat Reopens

The spring Himalayan climbing season is over, and the teams of climbers that made it one of the most successful in recent memory have departed Nepal for home. Now, the mountaineering world turns its attention to the Karakoram, as climbers descend on Pakistan to attempt K2, Nanga Parbat, and other major mountains in the region. That summer season is now starting to ramp up, with a significant amount of attention now focused squarely on the second tallest mountain in the world.

According to ExWeb, there will be 33 teams of various sizes operating in Pakistan this summer. They'll be focused not just on K2, but also the Gasherbrums, Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat, and a host of other mountains that are not a part of the 8000-meter club. That will make this one of the busiest seasons in the Karakoram and western Himalaya as well, with some significant expeditions planned.

But it is the continued commercialization of K2 that is receiving a good deal of attention. ExWeb estimates that more than 100 climbers will attempt the "mountaineer's mountain" this summer, which is a larger number than has been seen in the past. Most are a part of a commercial team with Madison Mountaineering, Kobler & Partner, and Seven Summits Treks leading the way.


100 climbers on K2 is a significant number to say the least. While that isn't anywhere close to the number of alpinists on Everest (550+ are said to have summited this year alone), it is a lot of people on a mountain that is widely considered to be the hardest and most dangerous climb on Earth. It is most definitely not a mountain that you want to be caught in a traffic jam on, but that could be a real possibility with this many people making the attempt. Hopefully everyone will stay safe throughout the season.

Meanwhile, over on Nanga Parbat the mountain is opening up again after seeing no summits since 2013. That's when a group of armed gunmen attacked the camp, killing 11 people. Since then, no summer permits have been issued for the mountain, but that will change this year. A couple of small teams are headed to NP with the hope of demonstrating that it is safe to climb, and ready to begin welcoming mountaineers back to its challenging face.

At the moment, these teams are mostly still en route to their various Base Camps or still planning to set out for Pakistan. But things will start to pick up soon. It should be a very interesting season to watch unfold, with K2 remaining the crown jewel. Expect numerous updates on the progress of teams in the weeks ahead.

Winter Climbs 2014: Second Summit Push Over

Yesterday, I wrote an update from Nanga Parbat that was filled with hope and promise for the climbers attempting to achieve the first winter ascents ever on that mountain. The teams on the Rupal Face were in motion, as they moved upward to get into position to take advantage of a possible weather window. But now, just 24 hours later, those hopes are dashed, with all climbers back in Base Camp.

The first time to go up the mountain was the Polish Justice For All squad. The Poles have a long history of winter climbing and they seemed poised to at least make an attempt at extending that legacy. When I last posted an update, they were in an intermediate camp between C1 and C2, with plans to go higher today and hopefully push to the summit tomorrow. Unfortunately, one of the members of the team has taken ill, and they were forced to abandon this push.

The North Face team was on the same trajectory, even though they left BC a bit behind the Poles. Simone Moro and David Göttler were sharing the same campsite yesterday and remained there, even while their companions elected to descend. But it seems that the weather window that they had originally hoped for has failed to open, and they too have now gone back to Base Camp. For now, there will be no summits.

It should be noted that while Nanga gets less technical on the upper slopes, mainly above C3, it is also far more exposed. With the high winds still in place, it would have made the final push to the summit very difficult. Temperatures are also extremely cold, and the risk was far higher than any of these climber were willing to take. This window was never a sure thing to begin with, so they'll chalk it up to more acclimatization and now they'll rest, remain patient and wait for better opportunity in the days ahead.

Over on the Diamir Face, we have received word today that Italian climber Daniele Nardi has completed his acclimatization with a successful summit of Ganalo Peak. He has now returned to BC as well, where we're told he is comfortable and calm before the start of his ascent. He will also rest and watch the skies, waiting for an opportunity to launch his solo, alpine style attempt on the summit too.

Stay tuned for more soon. The winter is far from over and the climbers may yet get the chance they are looking for.

Winter Climbs 2016: Nanga Parbat Climbers Reach Camp 2

It has been a really long and difficult couple of weeks on Nanga Parbat. The teams who are hoping to complete the first winter ascent of that mountain have mostly found themselves confined to Base Camp while waiting out the weather. While things haven't improved completely, conditions have gotten a bit better, with reports indicating that at least one team is on the move again, and taking advantage of the conditions that the mountain is affording them.

The international team of Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Simone Moro, and Tamara Lunger have reportedly managed to climb back up to Camp 2 at 6100 meters (20,013 ft) in an effort to resume their acclimatization efforts. The group had turned back on a couple of previous attempts to climb above Camp 1 due to high winds, but were able to push through yesterday. If the current weather window holds, they hope to move up to C3 tomorrow.

After sitting in BC for a couple of weeks, the current rotation not only helps with their acclimatization, but is also giving the team a chance to review the conditions on the route, which have been covered in snow and ice in recent days. If the four climbers do get a chance to make an eventual summit bid, they now have a better understand of what they'll face on the way up.

Meanwhile, there is news from elsewhere on the mountain. Earlier in the week I posted that Polish climber Tomek Mackiewicz was on his way back to Base Camp to continue his attempt to climb Nanga Parbat. You may recall that Tomek made a summit push with teammate Elisabeth Revol back in January, but after their bid came up short, the two left the mountain. While Revol returned to France as expected, Tomek hung around in Pakistan and was looking for an opportunity to give the mountain another go. It looks like that won't happen now however, with the Pole turning back once again.

According to ExWeb, Tomek was trekking back to BC and may have reached the huts in Kutgali, which are just a two-hour walk from Base Camp. But, it seems that he won't go any further, and has more than likely turned back and will now head home for good. This makes perfect sense considering his climbing permit is set to expire early next week.

Finally, there continues to be no updates from Cleo Weidlich, but ExWeb is also reporting that unofficial sources say that two members of her team have left the mountain as well. Weidlich reportedly acclimatized in Nepal before leaving for Pakistan, and was climbing with a team of five Sherpas. There is no indication of whether or not she has actually been able to move up the mountain, or the status of the team beyond this basic information.

That's it for now. I'll keep you posted as the season continues to unfold.

Winter Climbs 2014: Poor Weather Descends On Nanga Parbat

The winter climbing seasons is progressing quickly,  and the teams in Pakistan attempting the first ascent of Nanga Parbat have already spent more than a month on the mountain. As is usual with a winter climb, weather dictates when progress can be made, and until recently that weather had been fairly cooperative. But things have taken a turn for the worse at the moment, putting the climbers back in Base Camp, where they wait patiently for an opportunity to resume their expeditions.

The North Face team of Simone Moro, David Göttler and Emilio Previtali have been making solid progress on the mountain thus far. Simone and David have shuttled gear up to Camp 2 last week when the weather was good, and spent a few nights at altitude acclimatizing to the thin air. They had hoped to go as high as 7000 meters (22,965 ft), although it seems that they weren't quite able to reach that point. Still, they seem pleased with the work they have put in so far, and with just under two months to go in the winter, they aren't watching the clock too much just yet.

David granted an interview to German adventure sport journalist Stefan Nestler, during which he shared some thoughts on the climb so far. He indicated that he and Simone had gone as high as 6400 meters (20,997 ft) in their last acclimatization rotation, but they were forced to return to BC with the onset of poor weather. David also noted that his team is getting along great with the Polish squad they are sharing Base Camp with. Both units have been sharing intel and the duties of installing the fixed ropes up the slope.

Speaking of the Poles, their Justice For All team hasn't made an update in awhile, but ExWeb says that most of the team has gone up to 6100 meters (20,013 ft), with one member even spending some time in C2. Much like the TNF squad, they are acclimatizing as best they can while carrying gear up the slopes, and always keeping an eye on the weather. The forecast indicates that it will remain bad through  the weekend, with a potential window opening at the start of next week.

Meanwhile, Italian climber Daniele Nardi has arrived in Pakistan and is making his way towards Nanga Parbat. He'll attempt a solo, alpine style ascent along the Diamir Face, which means he won't be sharing BC with the other teams. That side of the mountain is reportedly quite unstable this year, but Daniele will give it a go none the less. Hopefully he'll be safe during his stay on the mountain.

That's all for now. We'll be keeping an eye on developments on Nanga Parbat in the days and weeks ahead. This could be the year that someone finally climbs the "Killer Mountain" during the winter.

Winter Climbs 2016: Two Teams Join Forces on Nanga Parbat

The teams climbing on Nanga Parbat have made solid progress since we last checked in. They've all had opportunities to work their respective routes, and everyone is acclimatizing as expected. There is still a long way to go before they launch any perspective summit bids, but with a period of good weather on the mountain, things are progressing about as well as can be expected at this point of the season.

The Polish Justice for All team is working the Rupal route. They're currently above 6200 meters (20,341 ft) and are fixing ropes towards Camp 3. So far, they've been making steady progress, although it hasn't been as fast as they'd like. Still, the team is slowly, and methodically, working its way up the mountain, acclimatizing as they go, and installing camps where they'll need them for any potential summit pushes down the line.

One interesting note however is that this squad originally had several Pakistani members as well, but according to ExWeb, they left the team a few weeks back. It is unclear why the local climbers decided to depart, but there seems to have been some dispute over the best way to climb the moutanin together.


Elsewhere, two of the teams on the Kinshofer Route have decided to join forces. One squad was originally made up of Alex Txikon, Daniele Nardi, and Ali Sadpara, while the other included the duo of Adam Bielecki and Jacek Czech. Each of these climbers is extremely strong and experienced, but it was in their best interest to work together to try to make the first ascent of Nanga Parbat in the winter. They have managed to fix rope to 5700 meters (18,700 ft), with another 3000 meters of rope shuttled to various points on the mountain. That should be more than enough to get them to the top, although there is lots of hard work to be done getting all of it into position.

With these two squads now working together, the rope fixing should go more quickly and efficiently. And since there are so many strong climbers on the team, the chances of success for all of them has increased all around.

ExWeb is reporting that Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol have now reached Camp 3 at approximately 6600 meters (21,653 ft), and were expecting to go above 7000 meters (22,956 ft) later today. That will put them in good position for a potential summit push, although they'll likely retreat to BC to rest up before that will ever happen. The two climbers were reportedly sharing camps with Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger as well, although the Italian climbers have not posted an update on their progress since last week.

All in all, it has been a good start to the winter climbing season on Nanga. It is still too early to know if anyone will be successful in their attempt o climb the mountain however, as the winter weather conditions can shift quickly, with heavy snows, high winds, and extreme temperatures gripping the region for days. Still, the teams remain optimistic that they can finally climb this beast during the harshest season of the year. We'll just have to wait to see if they get the chance.

Winter Climbs 2016: Nanga Parbat Team Reaches Camp 3

If you've been following the unfolding climbing season on Nanga Parbat you already know that the lone remaining team on that mountain has launched a summit bid. A weather window is expected to open over the next couple of days, and the four climbers are now moving up with the hopes of taking advantage of an opportunity to reach the summit at long last.

On Monday of this week, Alex Tkikon, Ali Sadpara, Simone Moro, and Tamura Lunger set off from Base Camp for Camp 2, located at 6100 meters (20,013 ft). They had no trouble reaching that point later in the day, but as ExWeb reports, they were unable to go higher yesterday. High winds hit the mountain yesterday, keeping the team pinned down in C2. At times, it looked like they might have to scrub their summit bid altogether, but thankfully the winds quieted down later in the day, allowing them to continue upwards today.

With a quieter day today, the four teammates were able to climb up to Camp 3 without incident and are now firmly encamped there at 6700 meters (21,981 ft). The latest forecast says conditions are calm and beautiful at the moment, with favorable conditions expected to last into the weekend.

When Alex and Ali climbed to C3 a few weeks back they had determined that fixed ropes were not needed above that point. That means they could conceivably move faster on the higher flanks of the mountain, as not much snow has fallen at those altitudes in recent days.

If all goes according to plan, the team should move up to Camp 4 at 7100 meters (23,293 ft) tomorrow. Once there, they'll evaluate the current weather window, their physical condition, and other variables before deciding what will happen next. If everything is going as expected, they'll then proceed towards the summit.

We'll continue to watch this story develop over the next few days and keep our fingers crossed that everyone gets up and down safely, summit or not.

Winter Climbs 2016: Nanga Parbat Teams Prep For Blizzard

What a difference a week can make. Last week at this time, several teams on Nanga Parbat were working to put themselves in a position to make a summit push. A weather window had opened on the mountain, and a couple of the teams were hoping that they could take advantage of the situation to complete the first ascent of that mountain. Now, just a few days later, the climbers who remain are back in Base Camp and waiting out a massive storm that promises to drop heavy snows and high winds on their positions.

In preparation for the arrival of the storm, Alex Txikon and Ali Sadpara went out in the bad weather to place bamboo poles along their route from BC to the moraine that leads up the slope. They are predicting that heavy snow will fall in that area in particular, and the poles will help them find their way once the storm clears, avoiding potential hazards that include some large crevasses. The duo, working in conjunction with Daniele Nardi, have fixed their ropes up to 6700 meters (21,981 ft), and have fully acclimatized, so now they are simply waiting for the weather to clear up before launching a summit bid of their own. When that could happen is anyone's guess at this point however, as the weather looks bleak for the next few days at the least.

Meanwhile, ExWeb is reporting that Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger may be changing up their plans. The two climbers have been on the mountain for a month now, and have managed to establish C2, but have struggled to get any higher on their chosen route. In order to acclimatize before a summit push, they need to establish more camps and spend some time at altitude. According to reports, Moro and Lunger have retrieved the gear that they had cached on the mountain, and are now rethinking their strategy. They are not prepared to go home just yet, but are possibly exploring other routes. Considering they are sharing BC with Alex, Ali, and Daniele, perhaps the five climbers will join forces and work together. (Update: that appears to be exactly what they'll be doing!)


Over on the Rupal Face, the Polish Justice For All team is back in Base Camp and taking a breather. They've managed to climb as high as 7500 meters (24,606 ft), but it is now unclear what their plans are. At one point, the team had said that it was prepared to stay through the entire winter, but ExWeb says that they could be planning to pullout and head for home – and Stefan Nestler agrees – as some of the members of the team are running low on time. The squad hasn't said this is the case just yet however, so we'll have to wait to see if they are indeed wrapping things up.

There is apparently a late newcomer to the mountain however, as reports indicate that American climber – by way of Brazil – Cleo Weidlich has arrived on Nanga Parbat with a support team. She's looking to have a go at the first winter ascent too, although starting this late in the season seems like quite a risk. She is in BC on the Rupal Face, and will begin her acclimatization efforts once the weather clears as well.

That's it for now, but I'll have more news from the mountain when there is anything to report.

Winter Climbs 2016: Summit Push Underway on Nanga Parbat

The weather conditions on Nanga Parbat seem surprisingly good for this time of year. That has given hope to the four remaining teams hoping to complete the first winter ascent of that mountain. While nothing is ever a sure thing when it comes to high altitude mountaineering, there is a weather window that is currently open and is expected to last into the weekend, and with two teams currently high on the Nanga's slopes, we could be about to see history made.

The team that we know the most about includes Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol. They set out a few days back, and while they aren't exactly sharing tons of information, we do know that they reached Camp 2 at 6500 meters (21,325 ft) on Monday, and are now pushing further up the hill. They should have at least reached Camp 3 by now, which could put them within striking distance of the summit over the next few days.

Meanwhile, Italian climbers Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger also set off on an alpine style ascent a few days back, but true to form they're staying mostly off the radar. There have been no updates on their progress since late last week, so they could also be ready to complete a summit push. We'll just have to wait for their next update to know for sure.

It should be noted that while the weather conditions on Nanga Parbat are listed as good, that is a relative term at best. During the winter, "good" still means high winds and extreme cold, which are simply par for the course during this season. At the moment, temperatures at the summit are said to be about -40ºC/F, so even if the current weather window holds, it won't be an easy ascent.

Elsewhere, the Polish Justice For All team has now reached 6650 meters (21,817 ft) and have established Camp 3. They're watching the winds very closely as well, and report that at least on their side of the mountain (Rupal Face) things are calm at the moment. They could potentially be getting ready to launch a summit bid of their own, although they haven't fixed ropes above their current position yet.

Finally, there has been no updates on the progress of Alex Txikon, Ali Sadapara, and Daniele Nardi over the past couple of days. We know that Txikon and Sadapara were planning to descend to Base Camp to rest after fixing ropes up to 6500 meters, and that Nardi was recovering from some minor injuries. It is likely that they are all still in place, and waiting to start their next rotation up the mountain as well.

I'll be keeping a close eye on the proceedings over the next couple of days. Lets keep our fingers crossed that one of these squads gets a chance at the summit, and that they all get back down safely.

Winter Climbs 2016: Revol and Mackiewicz at 7200 Meters on Nanga Parbat

Over the past week, we've been watching the events unfold on Nanga Parbat very closely, mostly because the weather is reportedly good right now and one of the four remaining teams hoping to reach the summit this winter has launched a summit bid. Now, as the weekend arrives, that squad is ready to have a go at the top, and possibly make history in the process.

As you probably already know, the 8126 meters (26,600 ft) Nanga Parbat is one of just two 8000 meter peaks that has yet to be scaled during the winter months, with the other being K2. In recent years, a number of teams have come close to finally putting up the first winter ascent, but the mountain has continued to turn everyone back. Just last year, Elisabeth Revol and Tomaz Mackiewicz climbed within 300 meters (984 feet) of the summit, but poor conditions forced them to turn back. Now, nearly one year later, they're ready to do it again.

According to their latest report, the duo are now above Camp 4 at 7400 meters (24,278 ft) and are preparing to go for the top. If everything holds in place, they could summit this weekend. But, they still have a long way to go, and based on last year's results, it is doubtful that they are taking anything for granted. The weather can change quickly on the mountain, and while the window looks like it'll be open for another couple of days, it could also slam shut rapidly as well. Stay tuned for more updates on their progress.


Elsewhere on the mountain, Alex Txikon, Daniele Nardi, and Ali Sadpara are working their way back up the mountain after all three took a few days to catch their breath following their last rotations. The trio have gone back up to C2 at 6100 meters (20,013 ft) and have taken enough rope with them to continue the process of fixing the lines up to C3, which should be located at 6700 meters (21,981 ft). They report heavy snow on their route at the moment, which made for slow going, but they are prepared to press ahead.

The Polish Justice For All team has hit a milestone on their expedition as well. They've now fixed the ropes up to 7000 meters (22,965 ft) as they join the race for the summit too. After completing that work, they'll now reportedly descend back to BC for some much needed rest. They're also keeping a close eye on Elisabeth and Tomaz's progress as well.

Finally, we have an update on Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger, the Italian squad who have been working the mountain as well. While the duo have been tightlipped about their progress, Aliex Txikon says that they have returned to Base Camp. Apparently, they had both been resting in BC for a few days, and were preparing to launch a summit bid, but a change in weather along their route has turned them back. They'll now continue to wait for an opportunity to reveal itself once again.

That's it for now. Hopefully Monday will bring us good news on the progress of all of the team, but especially Elisabeth and Tomaz. Good luck to them as they push forward.