Winter Climbs 2016: Playing the Waiting Game on Nanga Parbat

The winter season has arrived in full force on Nanga Parbat, where a handful of teams are still hoping to complete the first winter ascent of that mountain. Unfortunately, their chances don't look good over the next few days, as a massive storm has arrived in the region bringing high winds, extremely cold temperatures, and plenty of snow with it. So for now, the climbers are all stuck in Base Camp, waiting for a weather window open. That isn't expected to happen for another few days at the earliest, but after that another summit push could potentially begin.

Perhaps the biggest news from the mountain is that the Polish Justice For All team has left the Rupal Face and are heading for home. The squad was the first to arrive on Nanga this winter, and had been making steady progress, even reaching as high as 7500 meters (24,606 ft). But upon descending, they team realized that they were running low on essential supplies, and that their time was getting short. With bad weather in the forecast, they knew they wouldn't get another chance, so they elected to leave BC last week.

The Rupal Face hasn't been completely abandoned however, as just as the Poles were departing, another climber arrived. Brazil-born, U.S. citizen Cleo Weidlich reached Base Camp late last week, bringing three Nepali Sherpas along with her. She's hoping to become the first to stand on the summit of Nanga Parbat in winter, but will be doing so in a light and fast fashion. Reportedly, she acclimatized in Nepal before heading to Pakistan, but her late arrival puts the potential for success in question.

Over on the Kinshofer Route, two strong teams have now officially joined forces. A five-person group consisting of Alex Txikon, Daniele Nardi, Ali Sadpara, Simone Moro, and Tamara Lunger are cooperating with one another in an attempt to reach the top. For now though, they are all huddled together in BC, waiting for the weather to clear. Alex, Daniele, and Ali are acclimated and ready to go, although Simone and Tamara may need a bit more time at altitude before they are ready.

For now, each of the teams is sitting, waiting, and watching the weather. The forecasts calls for conditions to remain mostly unchanged until the weekend, but after that things are a bit murky. As you can imagine, conditions have to be right to climb Nanga Parbat during the summer, let alone the harsh winter season. And as of right now, it looks like the first winter ascent is as far off as it has ever been.

Winter Climbs 2016: A Team Departs Nanga Parbat

The biggest story of the winter climbing season is of course the on going efforts on Nanga Parbat, where multiple teams are attempting to become the first squad to complete an ascent of that mountain during the coldest, harshest season of all. So far, there has been stead progress made on a number of routes, and the weather has been mostly favorable. But things are starting to change, and the conditions that Nanga is so well known for have begun to appear at last. And if that wasn't enough, one of the teams has already decided to pull the plug on their expedition, returning home before they ever had a chance to go for the summit. 

The duo of Adam Bielecki and Jacek Czech have left Nanga Parbat following a couple of set backs, most prominently amongst them is the fact that Jacek has been ill for some time now, and Adam suffered an injury to his hand last week when fellow climber Daniele Nardi fell while the duo were fixing hopes to Camp 3. (See video here) On top of that, the duo had hoped to make a light and fast, alpine style climb, but were unprepared for everything this big mountain had to throw at them. With resources already tight, and the weather starting to turn, they elected to leave instead. But Bielecki has vowed to return, saying he has caught the "Nanga Parbat bug." Perhaps we'll see him on the mountain again soon as a result. 

For his part, Italian climber Daniele Nardi suffered minor injuries as a result of the fall too. He is resting in BC to allow his body to overcome some aches and pains in his back and neck that were the result of his 80 meter (262 ft) drop. Nardi is feeling lucky to be alive, but he remains on the mountain pressing ahead with his attempt nonetheless. 

Meanwhile, the Polish Justice For All team is reporting high winds on the Schell Route. They squad has attempted to shuttle gear up to Camp 3, but has run head-on into the jet stream instead. They report sustained winds of 100 km/h (62 mph), which is making it nearly impossible to make any kind of progress at the moment. They're currently waiting out the weather with the hopes of going up again soon. 

Alex Txikon and Ali Sadpara are continuing to make progress on the Kinshofer Route. Yesterday the fixed another 500 meters of rope above Camp 2 as they continue to work their way towards what will eventually be C3. They now have ropes in place to take them up to 6500 meters (21,325 ft), and after spending the night in C2 will now descend to Base Camp for some much needed rest and recuperation before starting up again. Incoming weather will probably keep them in place for a few days at least. 

Finally, ExWeb is reporting that Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol have launched a potential summit bid on the mountain. The duo set out from BC on Saturday and are now making their way up the mountain. If the continue to make good progress, and the weather cooperates, they have the potential to complete the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat later in the week. We'll just have to be patient to see if that happens, but of course I'll keep readers updated at the story unfolds. Tomek and Elisabeth are notorious for going as light as possible on their expeditions, and as a result they often don't take a sat phone or other equipment to keep us updated. For now, we'll just have to wait until we get more news. 

Winter Climbs 2016: Comings and Goings on Nanga Parbat

There has been little movement on Nanga Parbat since I wrote my last update at the beginning of last week. The teams are still mostly stuck in Base Camp where they are waiting for the weather to improve. With such a long delay, they may even have to acclimatize again before attempting the summit, although it remains to be seen if they will even get the chance. With five weeks to go in the season, time is starting to run short, particularly since the weather has been brutal for a few weeks now. But, the climbers that are on the mountain remain firmly in place, and are waiting for the opportunity to move up should the chance present itself.

Despite the fact that there has been little movement since the start of the month, there is still news to report however. For example, Italian climber Daniele Nardi has now departed BC following his much publicized dispute with teammate Alex Txikon. The two had a falling out over the logistics of their expedition, and as a result Nardi has now gone home. Meanwhile, Txikon has stayed behind and is working with Ali Sadpara, Simone Moro, and Tamara Lunger to continue working towards achieving the first winter ascent of the mountain.

While one climber has left, another is planning his return. Polish mountaineer Tomek Mackiewicz made an early season attempt on the mountain with Elisabeth Revol, but the two abandoned their efforts at the end of January. Revol has gone back to France, but Tomek has remained in Pakistan, and has been finding it difficult to get out due to an ongoing strike there. So, rather than head home, he has decided to go back to Nanga Parbat instead. He is still sorting out the details of his return, but he may already be back in BC and planning his next summit bid.

Finally, Brazilian-born American climber Cleo Weidlich is reportedly still on the Rupal Face although there has been no update on her progress. She is climbing with a group of Nepalese Sherpas, but it is unclear whether or not they have gone higher than Base Camp as of yet, although it seems likely that weather conditions are keeping them grounded too.

More news as it comes.

Video: Adam Bieleki and Daniele Nardi Have an Accident on Nanga Parbat

We've been following the unfolding winter climbing season on Nanga Parbat very closely this year, as four teams are working hard to complete the first ascent of that mountain. One of those teams had a close call yesterday when Polish climber Adam Bieleki took a fall will attempting to reach Camp 2 on the mountain. Fortunately, his partner Daniele Nardi was on hand to help anchor him in, and prevent the accident from becoming a tragedy.

Following the incident Adam posted a message on Facebook which reads:

Nanga is not an indulgent type... Third attempt towards C2 and another adventure. I took a fall with torn fixed rope. Fortunately Daniele was securing me with second rope. In spite of long fall I'm ok just with slightly battered right hand. We're in base licking our wounds, following weather forecasts and contemplating our options. Greetings, Adam & Jacek

The video below was shot from their GoPro cameras while making the ascent to C2. While it does not thankfully show the fall, it does give you an indication of what it is like on this mountain. The slopes are steep and covered in ice, with a long, treacherous drop behind them. Needless to say, it is not a place for the inexperienced mountaineer.

At one point in the video Adam and Daniele discuss the fall. Bieleki believes that he dropped at least 70 meters (230 feet), if not more. Fortunately he came away relatively unscathed, but I imagine he'll be spending some time in BC resting and recovering before going back up. It sounds like it was quite a scary situation. Thankfully, everyone is alright.

Video: An Expedition to Nanga Parbat with Simone Moro and David Göttler

In the winter of 2014, alpinists Simone Moro and David Göttler traveled to Pakistan to attempt the first ascent of Nanga Parbat in the winter. They failed in completing that objective, which is why we are closely following the teams that are on that mountain once again this year. To give you a better idea of what an expedition of this kind is like, check out the video below. It follows Simone and David throughout the course of their journey, giving us a glimpse of the conditions that climbers face on this incredibly difficult peak. After watching it, you'll understand why Nanga and K2 remain the only 8000 meters peaks that have yet to be climbed in winter.

Karakoram 2016: K2 Ramps Up, Nanga Parbat Reopens

The spring Himalayan climbing season is over, and the teams of climbers that made it one of the most successful in recent memory have departed Nepal for home. Now, the mountaineering world turns its attention to the Karakoram, as climbers descend on Pakistan to attempt K2, Nanga Parbat, and other major mountains in the region. That summer season is now starting to ramp up, with a significant amount of attention now focused squarely on the second tallest mountain in the world.

According to ExWeb, there will be 33 teams of various sizes operating in Pakistan this summer. They'll be focused not just on K2, but also the Gasherbrums, Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat, and a host of other mountains that are not a part of the 8000-meter club. That will make this one of the busiest seasons in the Karakoram and western Himalaya as well, with some significant expeditions planned.

But it is the continued commercialization of K2 that is receiving a good deal of attention. ExWeb estimates that more than 100 climbers will attempt the "mountaineer's mountain" this summer, which is a larger number than has been seen in the past. Most are a part of a commercial team with Madison Mountaineering, Kobler & Partner, and Seven Summits Treks leading the way.


100 climbers on K2 is a significant number to say the least. While that isn't anywhere close to the number of alpinists on Everest (550+ are said to have summited this year alone), it is a lot of people on a mountain that is widely considered to be the hardest and most dangerous climb on Earth. It is most definitely not a mountain that you want to be caught in a traffic jam on, but that could be a real possibility with this many people making the attempt. Hopefully everyone will stay safe throughout the season.

Meanwhile, over on Nanga Parbat the mountain is opening up again after seeing no summits since 2013. That's when a group of armed gunmen attacked the camp, killing 11 people. Since then, no summer permits have been issued for the mountain, but that will change this year. A couple of small teams are headed to NP with the hope of demonstrating that it is safe to climb, and ready to begin welcoming mountaineers back to its challenging face.

At the moment, these teams are mostly still en route to their various Base Camps or still planning to set out for Pakistan. But things will start to pick up soon. It should be a very interesting season to watch unfold, with K2 remaining the crown jewel. Expect numerous updates on the progress of teams in the weeks ahead.

Himalaya Fall 2016: Nobu Heads to Everest, Climbers Missing in Pakistan

The fall climbing season is upon us with several expeditions already underway in Nepal, while others begin to ramp up elsewhere. Last week several large teams set out for Manaslu, which will be a popular peak this season. Those climbers are just now getting settled into Base Camp where they will soon begin their acclimatization process. But elsewhere, things are starting to get very interesting.

Japanese climber Nobukazu Kuriki reportedly left Kathmandu for Lhasa, Tibet yesterday. After making five previous attempts to climb Everest from the South Side in Nepal, he'll make his sixth attempt from the North Side instead. Kuriki says that after he acclimates, he'll attempt to climb the Great Couloir route in alpine style solo and without oxygen.

In 2015, Kuriki attempted the same approach from the South Side only to be turned back at Camp 4 due to high winds and deep snow. This year he hopes to have more success, with a change in scenery helping to bolster is efforts. Back in 2012 he famously got stranded high on Everest and had to be rescued, but severe frostbite cost him parts of nine fingers. 

Hopefully he'll find more success this year. 

When he gets to BC on the North Side he won't be alone. Spanish ultrarunner Kilian Jornet is already there, and has been acclimatizing for his attempt at a new speed record on Everest. He'll also make one push up the mountain, climbing without oxygen, and incredibly lightweight gear. There is no word yet on when that attempt might come, and there have been few updates on his progress in recent days. For now, we wait.

Finally, there is some sad news out of Pakistan, where the Karakoram climbing season has essentially just wrapped up. Climbers Kyle Dempster and Scott Adamson have gone missing on the Ogre II, and search and rescue operations are currently underway there. 

The duo haven't been seen in last Monday – August 22. On that evening, the headlamps of the two American's were spotted heading up the mountain but poor weather moved in over the ensuing days, obscuring the view from Base Camp. Dempster and Adamson had planned to spend five days on their summit bid, which would have put them back in BC by August 26. There has been no word from them however, so friends and family have been raising funds to pay for a search team to begin looking for the missing men. 

The Ogre is also known as Baintha Brakk, and is considered amongst the most difficult mountains in the world. Standing 7285 meters (23,901 ft) in height, it is both a technical and physically demanding climb. The approach is incredibly steep and dangerous which is why 24 years past between the first ascent in 1977 and the second in 2001. Dempster himself paired with Hayden Kennedy to climb Ogre for the third time in 2012. 

Hopefully the two men will be found safe higher up on the mountain, but unfortunately that is seldom the case. Lets continue to hold out hope however, as there is still a chance they are alive and in need of some assistance in getting down. 

That's all for now. More updates to come soon. 

Winter Climbs 2016: Nanga Parbat Climbers Reach Camp 2

It has been a really long and difficult couple of weeks on Nanga Parbat. The teams who are hoping to complete the first winter ascent of that mountain have mostly found themselves confined to Base Camp while waiting out the weather. While things haven't improved completely, conditions have gotten a bit better, with reports indicating that at least one team is on the move again, and taking advantage of the conditions that the mountain is affording them.

The international team of Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Simone Moro, and Tamara Lunger have reportedly managed to climb back up to Camp 2 at 6100 meters (20,013 ft) in an effort to resume their acclimatization efforts. The group had turned back on a couple of previous attempts to climb above Camp 1 due to high winds, but were able to push through yesterday. If the current weather window holds, they hope to move up to C3 tomorrow.

After sitting in BC for a couple of weeks, the current rotation not only helps with their acclimatization, but is also giving the team a chance to review the conditions on the route, which have been covered in snow and ice in recent days. If the four climbers do get a chance to make an eventual summit bid, they now have a better understand of what they'll face on the way up.

Meanwhile, there is news from elsewhere on the mountain. Earlier in the week I posted that Polish climber Tomek Mackiewicz was on his way back to Base Camp to continue his attempt to climb Nanga Parbat. You may recall that Tomek made a summit push with teammate Elisabeth Revol back in January, but after their bid came up short, the two left the mountain. While Revol returned to France as expected, Tomek hung around in Pakistan and was looking for an opportunity to give the mountain another go. It looks like that won't happen now however, with the Pole turning back once again.

According to ExWeb, Tomek was trekking back to BC and may have reached the huts in Kutgali, which are just a two-hour walk from Base Camp. But, it seems that he won't go any further, and has more than likely turned back and will now head home for good. This makes perfect sense considering his climbing permit is set to expire early next week.

Finally, there continues to be no updates from Cleo Weidlich, but ExWeb is also reporting that unofficial sources say that two members of her team have left the mountain as well. Weidlich reportedly acclimatized in Nepal before leaving for Pakistan, and was climbing with a team of five Sherpas. There is no indication of whether or not she has actually been able to move up the mountain, or the status of the team beyond this basic information.

That's it for now. I'll keep you posted as the season continues to unfold.

Video: Expedition to K7 with Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, and Brady Robinson

While patrolling around the web looking for great videos to share, I often come across some that are little older, but still plenty interesting to watch. Take this one for example. It is a full documentary about a 2001 expedition to K7, a 6934 meter (22,749 ft) peak located in the Karakoram Range of Pakistan. In the video, we'll follow mountaineers Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, and Brady Robinson as they take on this massive, and incredibly difficult peak. There are some that believe that this adventure served as a warm-up for Conrad and Jimmy's attempt on Meru, which was documented in the amazing film of the same name. Give it a watch below.

Video: The 10 Deadliest Mountains in the World

Lets face it, mountaineering comes with some inherent risks, no matter when and where you're climbing. But, thanks to technical difficulties, unpredictable weather, and unique terrain, some mountains are obviously more dangerous than others. In this video we explore the 10 deadliest mountains in the world, giving us a look at some truly scary places, but ones that are also incredibly alluring too. If you've ever wondered which peaks make even the best alpinists in the world take pause, these are the ones. Make sure you know what you're doing before setting out to an expedition to one of these peaks.

Winter Climbs 2016: Nanga Parbat Team Reaches Camp 3

If you've been following the unfolding climbing season on Nanga Parbat you already know that the lone remaining team on that mountain has launched a summit bid. A weather window is expected to open over the next couple of days, and the four climbers are now moving up with the hopes of taking advantage of an opportunity to reach the summit at long last.

On Monday of this week, Alex Tkikon, Ali Sadpara, Simone Moro, and Tamura Lunger set off from Base Camp for Camp 2, located at 6100 meters (20,013 ft). They had no trouble reaching that point later in the day, but as ExWeb reports, they were unable to go higher yesterday. High winds hit the mountain yesterday, keeping the team pinned down in C2. At times, it looked like they might have to scrub their summit bid altogether, but thankfully the winds quieted down later in the day, allowing them to continue upwards today.

With a quieter day today, the four teammates were able to climb up to Camp 3 without incident and are now firmly encamped there at 6700 meters (21,981 ft). The latest forecast says conditions are calm and beautiful at the moment, with favorable conditions expected to last into the weekend.

When Alex and Ali climbed to C3 a few weeks back they had determined that fixed ropes were not needed above that point. That means they could conceivably move faster on the higher flanks of the mountain, as not much snow has fallen at those altitudes in recent days.

If all goes according to plan, the team should move up to Camp 4 at 7100 meters (23,293 ft) tomorrow. Once there, they'll evaluate the current weather window, their physical condition, and other variables before deciding what will happen next. If everything is going as expected, they'll then proceed towards the summit.

We'll continue to watch this story develop over the next few days and keep our fingers crossed that everyone gets up and down safely, summit or not.

Winter Climbs 2016: Nanga Parbat Teams Prep For Blizzard

What a difference a week can make. Last week at this time, several teams on Nanga Parbat were working to put themselves in a position to make a summit push. A weather window had opened on the mountain, and a couple of the teams were hoping that they could take advantage of the situation to complete the first ascent of that mountain. Now, just a few days later, the climbers who remain are back in Base Camp and waiting out a massive storm that promises to drop heavy snows and high winds on their positions.

In preparation for the arrival of the storm, Alex Txikon and Ali Sadpara went out in the bad weather to place bamboo poles along their route from BC to the moraine that leads up the slope. They are predicting that heavy snow will fall in that area in particular, and the poles will help them find their way once the storm clears, avoiding potential hazards that include some large crevasses. The duo, working in conjunction with Daniele Nardi, have fixed their ropes up to 6700 meters (21,981 ft), and have fully acclimatized, so now they are simply waiting for the weather to clear up before launching a summit bid of their own. When that could happen is anyone's guess at this point however, as the weather looks bleak for the next few days at the least.

Meanwhile, ExWeb is reporting that Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger may be changing up their plans. The two climbers have been on the mountain for a month now, and have managed to establish C2, but have struggled to get any higher on their chosen route. In order to acclimatize before a summit push, they need to establish more camps and spend some time at altitude. According to reports, Moro and Lunger have retrieved the gear that they had cached on the mountain, and are now rethinking their strategy. They are not prepared to go home just yet, but are possibly exploring other routes. Considering they are sharing BC with Alex, Ali, and Daniele, perhaps the five climbers will join forces and work together. (Update: that appears to be exactly what they'll be doing!)


Over on the Rupal Face, the Polish Justice For All team is back in Base Camp and taking a breather. They've managed to climb as high as 7500 meters (24,606 ft), but it is now unclear what their plans are. At one point, the team had said that it was prepared to stay through the entire winter, but ExWeb says that they could be planning to pullout and head for home – and Stefan Nestler agrees – as some of the members of the team are running low on time. The squad hasn't said this is the case just yet however, so we'll have to wait to see if they are indeed wrapping things up.

There is apparently a late newcomer to the mountain however, as reports indicate that American climber – by way of Brazil – Cleo Weidlich has arrived on Nanga Parbat with a support team. She's looking to have a go at the first winter ascent too, although starting this late in the season seems like quite a risk. She is in BC on the Rupal Face, and will begin her acclimatization efforts once the weather clears as well.

That's it for now, but I'll have more news from the mountain when there is anything to report.

Winter Climbs 2016: Summit Push Underway on Nanga Parbat

The weather conditions on Nanga Parbat seem surprisingly good for this time of year. That has given hope to the four remaining teams hoping to complete the first winter ascent of that mountain. While nothing is ever a sure thing when it comes to high altitude mountaineering, there is a weather window that is currently open and is expected to last into the weekend, and with two teams currently high on the Nanga's slopes, we could be about to see history made.

The team that we know the most about includes Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol. They set out a few days back, and while they aren't exactly sharing tons of information, we do know that they reached Camp 2 at 6500 meters (21,325 ft) on Monday, and are now pushing further up the hill. They should have at least reached Camp 3 by now, which could put them within striking distance of the summit over the next few days.

Meanwhile, Italian climbers Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger also set off on an alpine style ascent a few days back, but true to form they're staying mostly off the radar. There have been no updates on their progress since late last week, so they could also be ready to complete a summit push. We'll just have to wait for their next update to know for sure.

It should be noted that while the weather conditions on Nanga Parbat are listed as good, that is a relative term at best. During the winter, "good" still means high winds and extreme cold, which are simply par for the course during this season. At the moment, temperatures at the summit are said to be about -40ºC/F, so even if the current weather window holds, it won't be an easy ascent.

Elsewhere, the Polish Justice For All team has now reached 6650 meters (21,817 ft) and have established Camp 3. They're watching the winds very closely as well, and report that at least on their side of the mountain (Rupal Face) things are calm at the moment. They could potentially be getting ready to launch a summit bid of their own, although they haven't fixed ropes above their current position yet.

Finally, there has been no updates on the progress of Alex Txikon, Ali Sadapara, and Daniele Nardi over the past couple of days. We know that Txikon and Sadapara were planning to descend to Base Camp to rest after fixing ropes up to 6500 meters, and that Nardi was recovering from some minor injuries. It is likely that they are all still in place, and waiting to start their next rotation up the mountain as well.

I'll be keeping a close eye on the proceedings over the next couple of days. Lets keep our fingers crossed that one of these squads gets a chance at the summit, and that they all get back down safely.

Winter Climbs 2016: Revol and Mackiewicz at 7200 Meters on Nanga Parbat

Over the past week, we've been watching the events unfold on Nanga Parbat very closely, mostly because the weather is reportedly good right now and one of the four remaining teams hoping to reach the summit this winter has launched a summit bid. Now, as the weekend arrives, that squad is ready to have a go at the top, and possibly make history in the process.

As you probably already know, the 8126 meters (26,600 ft) Nanga Parbat is one of just two 8000 meter peaks that has yet to be scaled during the winter months, with the other being K2. In recent years, a number of teams have come close to finally putting up the first winter ascent, but the mountain has continued to turn everyone back. Just last year, Elisabeth Revol and Tomaz Mackiewicz climbed within 300 meters (984 feet) of the summit, but poor conditions forced them to turn back. Now, nearly one year later, they're ready to do it again.

According to their latest report, the duo are now above Camp 4 at 7400 meters (24,278 ft) and are preparing to go for the top. If everything holds in place, they could summit this weekend. But, they still have a long way to go, and based on last year's results, it is doubtful that they are taking anything for granted. The weather can change quickly on the mountain, and while the window looks like it'll be open for another couple of days, it could also slam shut rapidly as well. Stay tuned for more updates on their progress.


Elsewhere on the mountain, Alex Txikon, Daniele Nardi, and Ali Sadpara are working their way back up the mountain after all three took a few days to catch their breath following their last rotations. The trio have gone back up to C2 at 6100 meters (20,013 ft) and have taken enough rope with them to continue the process of fixing the lines up to C3, which should be located at 6700 meters (21,981 ft). They report heavy snow on their route at the moment, which made for slow going, but they are prepared to press ahead.

The Polish Justice For All team has hit a milestone on their expedition as well. They've now fixed the ropes up to 7000 meters (22,965 ft) as they join the race for the summit too. After completing that work, they'll now reportedly descend back to BC for some much needed rest. They're also keeping a close eye on Elisabeth and Tomaz's progress as well.

Finally, we have an update on Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger, the Italian squad who have been working the mountain as well. While the duo have been tightlipped about their progress, Aliex Txikon says that they have returned to Base Camp. Apparently, they had both been resting in BC for a few days, and were preparing to launch a summit bid, but a change in weather along their route has turned them back. They'll now continue to wait for an opportunity to reveal itself once again.

That's it for now. Hopefully Monday will bring us good news on the progress of all of the team, but especially Elisabeth and Tomaz. Good luck to them as they push forward.

Video: Climbing Link Sar - A Remote Peak in Pakistan

Last summer, climbers Andy Houseman and Jon Griffith traveled to the Karakoram in Pakistan to attempt a 7041 meter (23,100 ft) unclimbed peak known as Link Sar. The mountain gave them the biggest challenge of their life, testing their resolve and considerable skills along the way. You can see how this expedition unfolded in this fantastic video that comes our way courtesy of The North Face.

Winter Climbs 2016: Soap Opera Continues on Nanga Parbat as International Team Breaks Down Again

There still isn't a lot of news to report from Nanga Parbat. The weather remains awful, and as a result the remaining teams are stuck in Base Camp, waiting for an opportunity to go up. Over the weekend, 15 cm (6 inches) of new snow fell on the mountain, which only adds to the recent accumulations that will make breaking trail challenging once again.

But the ongoing saga of the dispute between Alex Txikon and Daniele Nardi seems to have taken another turn. First, we heard that a rift had come between the two men, and that they would no longer be working together on the attempt to complete the first winter ascent of the mountain. Then, a few days later, we were told that the entire story was blown out of proportion, and that they were continuing to work together. Now comes word once again that Alex and Daniele have gone their separate ways, and it seems that there is bad blood indeed.

Stefan Nestler has been watching the events on Nanga Parbat play out all season long, and posting updates to his Adventure Sports Blog. Over the weekend he shared yet more news from the mountain, not the least of which was a quote from Alex that said “Although tried to give more than one chance to this cooperation, it was finally impossible," indicating that he and Daniele have indeed split.

We know that Txikon and his partner Ali Sadapara are continuing to work with Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger. What Nardi's plans are remain unclear at this time, but as far as I can tell at this point, he is still in BC and possibly planning to make a solo attempt on the summit. We'll just have to wait to see how that unfolds.


Meanwhile, in that same blog post, Nestler shared an interview with Lunger who talks about what the team is doing in Base Camp to stay fit and ready to make a summit push. She also touches on trying to stay patient, why her and Simone's plans have changed, and the conditions they expect to see along the route to the summit.

Lunger is also asked about the rift between Alex and Daniele and simply says "I am, or rather, those who are still here are suffering from these disagreements. A particular person has played a dirty game and now has to live with the consequences."

So, while there has been no progress made towards the summit of the mountain, it seems safe to say that there is plenty of drama taking place. Hopefully the four-some that remain working together will get a chance to summit yet this year. For now though, they continue to play the waiting game in BC.

Video: Impossible - Running a 333 km Ultramarathon in the Himalaya

There are some very difficult ultramarathons held all over the world each year, but few can compare with La Ultra - The High. The race is held in the Indian Himalaya, and features a course that is 333 km (206 miles) in length. Competitors must cover the distance in just 72 hours, starting  at the base of the Karakoram Range in Nubra Valley and continuing on over mountain passes and through deep valleys.

Due to its extreme length, dramatic elevation gains, and incredibly tough trails, The High has been called the "world's cruelest ultra." Don't believe me? Have a look at the video below, which is a trailer for a full length documentary on the race. You'll catch a glimpse of some of the suffering that comes along with this race, and gain even more respect for the men and women who run it.

IMPOSSIBLE - Trailer from UPSLOPE PRODUCTIONS on Vimeo.

Winter Climbs 2016: No Rift On Nanga Parbat International Team After All?

We have a new chapter in the emerging soap opera on Nanga Parbat. Yesterday, I posted an update from the mountain with news that one of the teams was having an internal dispute that had caused them to break apart. But today, comes word that those reports may have been premature, and that everything may be going according to plan.

Citing an update from ExWeb, I shared the news that Alex Txikon and Daniele Nardi were having disagreements over how to proceed on their attempt to make the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat. The report indicated that a rift had grown between the two climbers, and that Nardi was leaving the expedition. Apparently, that news was either completely false, or way overblown, as Daniele has responded to the news.

According to Stefan Nestler's Adventure Sports Blog, Nardi has denied that there is any problem between him and Txikon, and that they are continuing to find ways to overcome the challenges they are facing on the mountain. Daniele says that he and Alex have cooperated on multiple expeditions in the past, and things between them remain good. He is quoted as saying “This year, I have considered him to be more than just a partner”, said Nardi. “We will find the best solution.”

It's good to hear that the relationship is intact and that they are proceeding as a team. If they hope to summit this monster, they'll need all of their considerable talents working together.

Meanwhile, Simone Moro shared a video of a massive avalanche coming down the Diamir Face on Nanga Parbat today. Check it out below for an idea of what these teams are facing.

Winter Climbs 2016: Teams Go To Work on Nanga Parbat

It has been a couple of weeks since we posted any updates from Pakistan, where at least five teams are now preparing to attempt the first ascent of Nanga Parbat in winter. As I'm sure most of you know, Nanga is one of just two 8000-meter peaks that have yet to be climbed during the very difficult winter season. The other major peak that holds that distinction is K2, which will have no visitors this winter at all. But over the past few years, there has been progress made on Nanga Parbat, and this year just might be the one that sees a successful summit at long last.

The first team on the mountain this year was the Polish Justice For All squad. They actually arrived in the region as far back as the middle of November, and have been busy acclimatizing ahead of the start of the winter season. Once the first day of winter in the Northern Hemisphere passed on December 21, they immediately went to work and have been busy fixing ropes and establishing camps ever since. They have now reached an altitude of about 5500 meters (18,044 ft) and have been shuttling gear up to their intermediate camps before heading higher on the Schell Route.

Elsewhere, Adam Bielecki and Jacek Czech have arrived in Base Camp on Nanga Parbat after spending several weeks acclimatizing in the Andes in South America. Adam says that the snow is already quite heavy on the mountain, but the pair have managed to establish Camp 1 at 4900 meters (16,076 ft). They have since returned to Base Camp where they are catching their breath, warming up, and planning the next move.


The international team led by Alex Txikon, and consisting of Daniele Nardi and Ali Sadpara arrived on the mountain a few days back and have already gone to work too. They've already taken 70 kilograms (154 lbs) up to C1, which is located at 4850 meters (15,912 ft) using snowshoes and sleds to aid in the process. So far, the team reports that the weather has been good, but that is expected to change in the next few days, when heavy snow is in the forecast.

Italian climbers Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger reached Nanga Parbat on December 27, and have joined forces with Elisabeth Revol and Tomek Mackiewicz, who spent a considerable amount of time on the mountain last winter. They have been acclimatizing over the past few days, and most likely have established their first camp as well. As part of the process, the group has now gone as high as 6000 meters (19,685 ft) and spent a couple of nights above 5500 meters (18,044 ft) as well. They're now back in BC resting, and sorting through some logistical issues, including the fact that the porters are now requesting 5 times the price that they agreed upon to shuttle gear up to BC. Such are the challenges of an expedition to Pakistan.

For the most part, the winter climbing season is only now just getting underway. Some of these teams are prepared to stay on Nanga Parbat throughout the entire winter if necessary, although weather conditions will dictate any chances they have of actually reaching the top. For now, they are all being patient, taking their time, and watching the forecasts closely. We'll be watching their progress just as closely in the days to come. This could be the winter season in which history is made.

Winter Climbs 2017: Expeditions Now Underway

Winter is here, and that means we'll have some interesting expeditions to follow closely over the next few months. A few weeks back it seemed like there would be little winter action this year, but there are a couple of good stories to watch unfold, including some in the Himalaya, including the first winter expedition to Everest in quite some time. Let's start there. 

Spanish climber Alex Txikon and climbing partner Carlos Rubio, along with a small support team, spent the New Year in Nepal, where they are currently trekking to Everest Base Camp. They plan to climb the highest mountain on the planet during the toughest season of them all. Alex and his team arrived in the Khumbu Valley on December 29, and have slowly been making their way towards Everest ever since. The trek is the start of the acclimatization process, but they should reach Base Camp later this week. Once there, they'll likely spend a day or two getting settled and surveying the landscape before they start the process of moving through the Khumbu Icefall and traveling up to Camp 1 as the climb truly begins.

Meanwhile, Elisabeth Revol has set her sights on climbing Manaslu during the winter. She trekked to BC on that mountain last week, and arrived there on December 28. Since that time, she's been focused on acclimatizing and getting settled in preparation for her first rotation up the mountain, which should come soon. Elisabeth says that conditions are cold and windy, as you would expect in the Himalaya during the winter months. 

Solo climber Lonnie Dupre is preparing to depart on his winter expedition as well. Dubbed Cold Hunter One, he plans to climb the 4441 meter (14,573 ft) Mt. Hunter in Alaska, which is a cold, remote, and technically difficult mountain in just about any season, let alone winter. You may recall that Lonnie made a solo summit of Denali in January a couple of years back, and he expects this expedition to be just as challenging, despite the big difference in altitude. He is preparing to depart for Base Camp today, weather permitting. As usual, he'll catch a bush plane out to this starting point when conditions allow.

Finally, ExWeb is reporting that a pair of climbers have launched a winter expedition in the Karakoram as well. Qudrat Ali and Samiya Rafiq first planned to take on an unclimbed 6200 meter (20,341 ft) peak in the region near Khurdopin Pass. The two climbers will then push on up through that pass as well, which is the highest in the mountain range at 5790 meters (18,996 ft). Conditions are expected to be brutal with temperatures dropping as low as -30ºC/-22ºF, with high winds and heavy snow likely. The expedition began back on December 24, and is set to wrap up on January 12, so it is a brief but tough excursion into the mountains. 

That's it for today. Expect more updates on these expeditions as the season unfolds.