Winter Climbs 2014: Second Summit Push Over

Yesterday, I wrote an update from Nanga Parbat that was filled with hope and promise for the climbers attempting to achieve the first winter ascents ever on that mountain. The teams on the Rupal Face were in motion, as they moved upward to get into position to take advantage of a possible weather window. But now, just 24 hours later, those hopes are dashed, with all climbers back in Base Camp.

The first time to go up the mountain was the Polish Justice For All squad. The Poles have a long history of winter climbing and they seemed poised to at least make an attempt at extending that legacy. When I last posted an update, they were in an intermediate camp between C1 and C2, with plans to go higher today and hopefully push to the summit tomorrow. Unfortunately, one of the members of the team has taken ill, and they were forced to abandon this push.

The North Face team was on the same trajectory, even though they left BC a bit behind the Poles. Simone Moro and David Göttler were sharing the same campsite yesterday and remained there, even while their companions elected to descend. But it seems that the weather window that they had originally hoped for has failed to open, and they too have now gone back to Base Camp. For now, there will be no summits.

It should be noted that while Nanga gets less technical on the upper slopes, mainly above C3, it is also far more exposed. With the high winds still in place, it would have made the final push to the summit very difficult. Temperatures are also extremely cold, and the risk was far higher than any of these climber were willing to take. This window was never a sure thing to begin with, so they'll chalk it up to more acclimatization and now they'll rest, remain patient and wait for better opportunity in the days ahead.

Over on the Diamir Face, we have received word today that Italian climber Daniele Nardi has completed his acclimatization with a successful summit of Ganalo Peak. He has now returned to BC as well, where we're told he is comfortable and calm before the start of his ascent. He will also rest and watch the skies, waiting for an opportunity to launch his solo, alpine style attempt on the summit too.

Stay tuned for more soon. The winter is far from over and the climbers may yet get the chance they are looking for.

Expedition Amundsen 2014: The World's Toughest Ski Race

Looking for an endurance event to test your skills during the winter? Then look no further than Expedition Amundsen, an event that is billed as the toughest ski race in the world – and for good reason.

The race follows the same route that Roald Amundsen used while training for his expedition to the South Pole back in 1911. It covers 100 km (62 miles) across the Hardangervidda mountain plateau in Norway, which is a grueling stretch of land, even in the best of conditions. How grueling you ask? It is so tough that Amundsen himself was unable to complete the route. Later he said that training there was crucial to completing his epic journey across Antarctica and he said it was as tough as that expedition as well.

Competitors in the Expedition Amundsen race will traverse the route complete unsupported. They'll have to ski the trail while pulling a sled with all of their safety gear behind them at all times. The event only accepts solo entrants if they are sufficiently experienced enough to go it alone. Otherwise, athletes must enter in teams of two and three in order to support one another.

Last year, a massive storm hit the course in the middle of the race, forcing 60 of the participants to take shelter. They were hunkered down for 36 hours while they waited for the storm to pass. Considering the remoteness of the course, there was little other option for the racers, who were in the middle of the competition when the weather took a turn for the worse.


In another nod to just how challenging this race can be, not a single foreign competitor was able to complete the race last year. Only the Norwegian were able to navigate the entire course and reach the finish line. Their experience in harsh conditions seem to serve them well in this race.

The 2014 edition of Expedition Amundsen will begin on February 27 at 1 PM local time in the county of Telemark, Norway. Where else would it begin? It should be quite the event to follow.

Video: China Jam - Big Wall Climbing In The Tien Shan Range

Back in October, I posted a story about an expedition to China to climb big walls in the Tien Shan Range that was dubbed China Jam. In a nutshell, three Belgians, Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll, Nicolas Favresse and Stéphane Hanssens, and one Frenchman, Evrard Wendenbaum, traveled to the Chinese-Kyrgyz border to put up the first ascent of Kyzyl Asker, a 5842 meter (19,166 ft) tower with a 1220 meter (4000 ft) exposed face. It took the team two weeks to complete their objective, but eventually they were successful.

The team is now hoping to complete a documentary of their climb and they recently attempted to raise funds on Indiegogo to help complete the project. Unfortunately, those efforts did not succeed, but they aren't giving up just yet. A new site for taking contributions has popped online, giving us all another chance to help fund the film of this expedition. For a sample of what the footage looks like, take a look at the very impressive images in the video below. It looks stunning and I'd love to see this film get completed.

China Jam - Trailer from Evrard Wendenbaum on Vimeo.

Mountain Runner Sets Female Aconcagua Speed Record

Standing 6961 meters (22,838 ft) in height, Argentina's Aconcagua is the tallest mountain in South America, and the highest peak outside the Himalaya in the world. That makes it one of the Seven Summits of course, luring in hundreds of climbers each year who are looking to add one of those iconic mountains to their resume. While not nearly as challenging as Everest, it remains a formidable peak, as Ranulph Fiennes discovered recently.

But about the same time that Sir Ran was preparing to head home a few weeks back, another climber by the name of Sunny Stroeer was preparing to make a run – quite literally – at the speed record by a woman on the mountain. On January 23, she did just that, setting a new mark for climbing from Base Camp to the summit, despite the fact that she had a respiratory infection.

Outside magazine has posted a profile of the 32-year old Stroeer following her epic ascent, which took 8 hours and 47 minutes to complete, shaving 29 minutes off the previous record. Stroeer is no stranger to long endurance events, as she is an ultrarunner who has competed in such events as the legendary Western States, amongst numerous other 50 and 100k runs. Perhaps her biggest adventure so far however is quitting her job back in 2015 to focus on running and traveling full-time. Since then, she has roamed around the southwest states of the U.S., and gone trekking in Thailand, Nepal, Tanzania, Germany, and other places.

Back in 2014, Stroeer climbed Aconcagua for the first time, going solo and unsupported, which is an impressive accomplishment in its own right. She told Outside that she was shocked at how few women were on the mountain, which gave her the idea of forming an all ladies team to make another attempt on the summit. She did that this year, and her record-setting run was a part of that expedition.

Sunny's story is an impressive one on a number of different levels. There is certainly a lot of inspiration to be had from her adventures. Congrats on the new speed record!

DVD Review: Everest Combo Pack

It isn't often that we get a mountaineering film on the big screen in our local theaters, but that is exactly what we got last September when Universal Studios released Everest, a movie that tells the story of the infamous 1996 season on the world's highest peak. For many of us, that story is well known, particularly since it was chronicled so well in Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air. But a big screen dramatization of those events was a major risk for any Hollywood production house, particularly since mainstream audiences don't really flock to the theater to see this type of film. Critically, Everest did well, but unfortunately that didn't translate to big box office numbers, and the film didn't even manage to make it'd production budget back. That's a real shame, as it really is a well crafted film that I think many people will enjoy, and I said as much when I reviewed it months back. 

If you missed Everest when it was in theaters, now is your chance to make up for it. The movie releases today on DVD and Blu-Ray after having already been available for a few weeks on popular digital streaming services like iTunes. I received an advanced copy of the DVD, and while I will say that there is nothing like seeing this movie on a massive IMAX screen, the translation to our home theaters is a good one as well.

My review copy was the DVD "combo pack." That means that it comes with three discs – standard DVD, Blu-Ray, and Blu-Ray 3D – as well as a code to download the digital version as well. As you would expect, watching the move in HD with the Blu-Ray is spectacular, with great picture quality and sound. The epic scope that was conveyed in the theater still comes through here too, albeit on a scale that is designed to fit on your television screen and not a giant theater. 

As great as the scenery is in Everest – and trust me, it's pretty great – the thing that will stay with you long after you've seen the film is the performances by the principle actors. The movie is filled with stars, including Josh Brolin, Kiera Knightly, Jake Gyllenhaal, and Robin Wright. But Jason Clarke, who plays Rob Hall, delivers a stand out portrayal of the famous mountain guide, and his scene near the end of the film with Knightly (you know the one!) is heart wrenching. Those great performances come through just fine on the small screen, keeping me just as captivated in my living room as they did in the theater. 

The DVD comes with some compelling extras, particularly for those of us who are into the whole Everest scene to begin with. There are short documentaries that tell us what the actors had to go through to appear to know what they were doing in the climbing scenes, and others that go into detail on how the film was made, including a look at the great lengths that the crew went to to make it appear as if they were actually on Everest circa the mid-1990's. Director Balthasar Kormákur even provides a commentary track, which I haven't listened to as I watched the film just yet. I'm sure it contains even more interesting facts about the production though. 

If you're a regular reader of this blog, and you haven't seen Everest yet, you probably should rectify that situation soon. Even if you already know the story, it is still worth a watch, as the cinematography, landscapes, and acting are all top notch. Having been to Everest Base Camp myself, I truly enjoyed seeing the scenes that were filmed in Nepal, as it brought back great memories of trekking through the Khumbu Valley a few years back. This movie makes you feel like you are there, even when they are high up on the mountain, struggling to overcome the Hillary Step on their way to the summit. 

Available now, Everest makes a great addition to anyone's personal library of films. That is especially true however if you know what it takes to climb the mountain. I suspect that more than a few of you reading this review fall into that category. Considering the lukewarm reception that the film received at the box-office, it may be awhile before we see another mountaineering film such as this one get made. Enjoy this one to its fullest. 

Himalaya Spring 2016: Lhotse Face Closed on Everest, Annapurna Summit Push Begins

More news from the Himalaya today where the spring climbing season continues to unfold at a quick pace. But today we learn that acclimatization efforts are at a standstill on Everest, while teams on Annapurna are once again on the move.

The big news of the day is that the Lhotse Face on Everest is closed due to the collapse of an ice ledge on the mountain. The collapse occurred along the route from Camp 2 to Camp 3, where some teams were already moving up as part of their latest round of acclimatization rotations. All teams have reportedly retreated to C2, where everyone seems to be safe. Thankfully, there doesn't appear to be any casualties.

The collapse occurred this morning local time in Nepal. The teams there are now examining their options for climbing higher, which could involve using ladders to climb over the chunks of ice or a longer route that goes around the area where the collapse occurred. It will probably take a couple of days to sort things out, as ladders would need to be carried up the mountain to be put into place or any potential detours will need to be scouted before teams attempt to go around.

In other Everest news, it has also been reported that a Sherpa collapsed in Camp 1 today. He was immediately treated for altitude sickness, placed on oxygen, and evacuated to Lukla. Now that he is at lower altitude, he is expected to recover completely.

Elsewhere, over on Annapurna a new summit bid is now under way. Teams have started to move up this morning with the hope of topping out on Sunday, May 1. About 30 climbers, including 10 Sherpas, have begun to move up, with Aussie Chris Jensen Burke and Spaniard Carlos Soria amongst the group. If all goes according to plan, they should reach C4 by Saturday and launch their bid that evening with the plan of summiting on Sunday morning. Hopefully the weather will hold, allowing them to safely get up and down.

That's all for now. More news as it comes in.

Himalaya Spring 2016: News From Everest, Another Summit Window Opens on Annapurna

Yesterday was a busy – if solemn – one on Everest, as the climbing teams are now in the thick of their acclimatization process. Elsewhere, a similar story is unfolding on a number of other Himalayan peaks, while over on Annapurna the climbers are now eyeing another weather window that approaches in the next few days.

We've reached the mid-way point of the climbing season on Everest, where we get an excellent report on what is happening there via to Alan Arnette. He says that in some ways it is a very normal season on Everest this year, which is a relief considering the challenges of the past few seasons. But it is a quieter time in the Khumbu Valley as well, with about 15% fewer climbers on Everest, and about a 40% drop off in trekking across the region too. That means its fairly quiet there compared to years past.

Alan says that another major change on Everest this season is that the route through the Khumbu Icefall has been altered as well. In the past, climbers spent a lot of time in the Icefall, crossing upwards of 20 ladders as they made their way through this dangerous section of the mountain. But this year, there are just 7 ladders, as the route is shorter while avoiding some of the more dangerous overhanging seracs. The route might be more direct, but it is also more challenging too. Alan indicates that there is actually more climbing involved with passing through the Icefall this season, which is a departure from previous years as well.


As for Alan himself, he's in Nepal to climb Lhotse this season, but his acclimatization process has been slowed by an upper respiratory infection. He tells readers that his team is now on a mid-season rotation up to Camp 2 right now, but he was forced to return to Base Camp after developing a nasty cough. He's hoping to knock the illness out quickly and get back on track soon. With five weeks to go, he still has plenty of time to acclimatize ahead of an eventual summit bid.

Over on Shishapangma, Ueli Steck and David Göttler have now arrived in BC. They finished their trek to the mountain on Sunday and have spent the past couple of days getting settled and rested. The duo have traveled to the Himalaya to attempt a new route on this peak, which they hope to complete in a light and fast, alpine style ascent. They acclimatized in the Khumbu Valley before crossing the border into Tibet, and are now ready to start scouting the line that they intend to climb. It is likely that they'll spend a bit for time acclimatizing and watching the weather before they actually start their ascent.

Finally, the remaining teams on Annapurna are now gearing up for what looks like the next – and possibly final – summit bid of the season. Forecasts now indicate that the jet stream is now starting to move away from Nepal, and as a result winds are beginning to die down to a degree. It now appears that conditions could permit climbers to go for the summit this coming weekend or early next week, although the exact schedule is still in flux.

Time could be running out on Annapurna, where teams have been on the mountain for weeks already. The current strategy for this mountain – which is prone to avalanches – is to climb earlier in the season before it gets too warm there. We're approaching the point in the season when things will start to warm up, making it riskier to climb. With that in mind, most of the climbers are hoping to take advantage of the next weather window to nab the summit while they can. On top of that, a number of the alpinists are also planning on moving on to other peaks in the region, so they're eager to wrap-up their expeditions on Annapurna as well.

Things are really starting to ramp up now across the Himalaya. We're still several weeks away from summit attempts on Everest of course, but it is easy to see how things are unfolding at the moment. It's all about the acclimatization rotations and the weather right now, but things are proceeding about as well as expected at this point.