Dawn Wall Update: Adam Ondra Making Steady Progress on the Toughest Climb in the World

Remember last week, when I shared the news about Czech climber Adam Ondra preparing to make an attempt on the incredibly difficult and demanding Dawn Wall in Yosemite? At the time I had said that it seemed unlikely that he would be able to take on that epic ascent considering it was his first visit to the valley, and he hadn't even touched the rock there yet. On top of that, the Dawn Wall had only been completed once in the past, having famously been free-climbed in January of 2015 by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson. But, it turns out I couldn't have been more wrong however, as Ondra is proving what many in the outdoor world already knew – that he just might be the best rock climber in the world today.

Ondra began his climb of the Dawn Wall last Monday – October 17 – and has been making steady progress up the face ever since. On his first day out, he managed to knock off seven quick pitches as he rapidly ascended the route, which falls along the southeast face of El Capitan, quite possibly the most famous rock climbing spot in the entire world.

But, being primarily a sport climber, Ondra found the Dawn Wall to be a different beast than he is use to tackling. By the time he finished those first seven pitches he was exhausted. Despite those challenges however, he did manage to reach the top of pitch 10 before darkness fell Tuesday, making it a very productive first couple of  day for sure.

Over the following few days of last week, Ondra continued to make progress, albeit at a slower pace on more difficult pitches. Heading into the weekend, he had reached pitch 15, which is rated a 5.14d and is considered the crux of the entire climb. There hasn't been update yet as to his progress on that particular challenge, but if he didn't get past it over the past couple of days, it will certainly be his primary focus as he starts his second week on the Dawn Wall.

If the 23-year old Czech climber can get over the next three pitches – and there is no indication that he won't – it is relatively easy sailing to the top from there. That means we could see a second ascent of what many consider the toughest rock climbing challenge in the world by the end of the week. Stay tuned for more updates. It's going to be fun to follow Adam's progress.

Gear Closet: Haibike Xduro AllMtn RX Electric Mountain Bike

One of the hottest trends in cycling over the past couple of years has been the rise in prominence of the electric bike – more commonly known as the e-bike. At first glance, most of these bikes look like just about any other that you might encounter on the road, although they have a hidden secret. They come equipped with a battery-powered motor that can help you maintain higher speeds with less effort or climb tough hills that would normally leave your legs crying out in agony.

This little speed-boost has made e-bikes especially popular with commuters, many of whom find that the onboard motor helps them travel along with traffic better and allows them to arrive at their destination relatively fresh thanks to not having to exert as much energy.

An avid biker myself, I've been intrigued with e-bikes for some time, but hadn't gotten the chance to try one out for myself. That changed recently when Haibike sent me one of their electric assisted mountain bikes to take for a spin, and I have to say I came away impressed. The bike delivered on everything that was promised – and more – allowing me to power through a ride like never before. But in the end, it also left me reevaluating why I like mountain biking so much in the first place.

For my little e-bike test drive, Haibike sent me a 2015 model known as the Xduro AllMtn RX. The current model that fits pretty much the same specs is the Xduro AllMtn 7.0. Both versions sport Shimano components, 27.5" tires, a full-supsenion, and a slick looking design that looks aggressive and fun to ride. Hidden inside the aluminum frame however, is a 36-volt motor that is powered by a 500 Wh battery that help this bike truly stand out from the crowd.

Before we go too far into this review, it is important to point out that while most e-bikes provide an electric assist, but you still have to do all of the pedaling. You simply don't have to pedal quite so hard in order to get the bike up to speed nor to maintain that speed. Likewise, when climbing a hill, the speed-assist kicks in to lend a hand, making it surprisingly easy to shoot up steep grades, although you still have to put in some work to get to the top.


The motor installed on this bike has five different settings, including Eco, Tour, Sport, and Turbo, as well as off. Yes, you can ride the bike without any type of electrical assist, but since it tips the scales at 49.2 pounds, it does feel a bit slow and ponderous. Eco mode provides the least level of assistance, which doesn't feel like much, although it is there to lend a hand when you need it. Turbo is bit like strapping a rocket to your bike, although it comes at dramatically reduced battery life.

While testing the Xduro, I only switched over to the highest level when tackling a big hill, otherwise I tended to stay in Tour mode most of the time. This allowed me to easily maintain a good rate of speed over a variety of terrains without having to expend a lot of energy in the process. The result was that at the end of my ride, I still felt like I had a good workout, but I wasn't completely wasted, even after riding a tough trail.

The Xduro AllMtn has a built in cycling computer mounted on its handlebars that provides information such as your current speed and time, as well as offering a trip odometer, and life-time odometer all in a digital format. That same display also provides constant updates of how much battery life remains by showing not only a battery indicator but also the amount of range the bike has before it runs out of juice. The screen also has an icon that indicates which level of power that the motor is set too as well.

Getting on the bike for the first time, I was unsure exactly how things worked. The motor was engaged, but there is no throttle that you can control, so I wasn't exactly sure how I'd know if it was working properly. It only took a second to figure that out however, as when I started to pedal you could feel the electric assist kick in with a very noticeable boost, even in Eco mode. That boost only became more noticeable as increased the level of power generated by the motor.

Before too long, I found myself testing the bike to see what it could do in a variety of different conditions, and for the most part it performed very well. It wasn't quite as agile and responsive as my Trek mountain bike back home, then again that bike doesn't power up big hills as easily either. I have to admit, the Xduro AllMtn is fun to ride, and is quite capable of tackling a wide variety of trails types.

Now, all of that said, I have to say that I have a few reservations about this e-bike as well. For starters, it is a heavy beast. As mentioned, it is nearly 50 pounds (22.68 kg), which makes it more than twice as heavy as my normal ride. That added weight becomes more evident on tougher trails where agility can be an important factor. And heaven forbid you should run out of battery power while riding, as it would definitely be quite a workout to get Xduro back to the trailhead without the electric assist.

Despite how much fun I had riding the bike, I also couldn't help but feel like I was cheating a bit out on the trail. Part of the allure of mountain biking for me is taking on the challenges of the route with just my bike. That includes all of the challenges, such as climbing hills and maintaining a good speed. This bike made that so easy to do that it almost felt like an entirely different sport. At the end of my test run, I came to the conclusion that while I wouldn't mind an e-bike for commuting around town, I'm not sure I want one to replace my mountain bike.

That said, for riders who are a little older, or aren't quite as physically fit, the Xduro AllMtn is a good solution that allows them to ride challenging trails much more easily. I can definitely see the allure of this bike under those circumstances.

Durable and well-built, the Haibike Xduro AllMtn 7.0 is competitively priced at $5299. It has quality parts and components at every important spot, and a tough aluminum frame with solid geometry. It also happens to have a secret weapon hidden away in the form of an electric motor. All of that design and technology doesn't come cheap, although I've seen plenty of standard mountain bikes that fall in the same price range, even without a motor. Of course, those bikes are likely to have even better components and a carbon frame, just to put things in perspective.

If you've been considering an e-bike for your mountain biking needs, I'd certainly encourage you to give the Haibike Xduro AllMtn a look. It is a great machine for the right rider. I'm just not sure if that rider is me.

Find out more at Haibike.com.

5 Reasons Why You Should Be Using Adventure Travel Insurance

I'm fortunate that my job takes me to some of the most amazing places on the planet to do some fantastic things. From climbing Kilimanjaro, to camping in the Sahara, to hiking in the Himalaya, I've had the opportunity to see places that most people only dream about. But the destinations I visit are often very remote and some of the activities come with a certain measure of risk as well. Because of this, I always purchase travel insurance before setting out, and you should too. With that in mind, here are five reasons why you should invest in travel insurance coverage before setting out on your next adventure as well.

Emergency Evacuation
One of the biggest worries for adventure travelers is taking ill or getting injured while visiting a destination that is miles away from a hospital or other kinds of medical care. But if you have a travel insurance plan, you'll not only be covered for emergency evacuations, you'll also receive help in determining the best course of action for treating the illness or injury too. Some plans will even cover the costs of family members traveling to meet you should an extended stay in a hospital be required. As if that wasn't enough, you'll also be covered for the appropriate care when you get home too.

Finding Quality Heath Care No Matter Where You Are
It isn't always easy to know which doctors to see or hospitals to go to when visiting a foreign country. But a good travel insurance plan will also offer advice and information on where to go to receive the proper care. You'll have an emergency response team at your disposal 24/7, which can help answer questions and direct you to the best place to receive the care you need. That kind of information can be invaluable while traveling.

Keep Medical Costs Down
Most of our health insurance plans don't cover us while we traveling in foreign countries, and especially if you're undertaking adventurous activities like climbing a mountain or rafting a Class V river. But travel insurance from a company such as MedEx of United Healthcare Global is designed to help keep costs down and prevent you from having to pay an arm and leg to receive care. Some plans do have a deductible, but even that will be far less than what you might pay if you were to become ill or injured while on the road.


Non-Medical Assistance
Travel insurance isn't just useful for overcoming medical emergencies. It can prove highly useful in other ways too. For instance, insurance representatives can help you to get a new passport should yours get lost or stolen. Depending on your plan, you might also be able to receive emergency funds if your cash is taken as well. Most travel insurance companies can offer advice on a wide variety of topics, including where to seek legal advice, how to recover lost travel documents, and who to talk to for arranging assistance in non-medical emergencies too. It's a bit like having a very knowledgable travel resource at your service 24 hours a day.

Unexpected Interruptions
Lets face it, travel isn't cheap and it can be very disappointing when it doesn't go as planned. If your luggage is lost or a trip gets unexpectedly cancelled, there might not be much you can do. But if you have the proper travel insurance, you'll be compensated for these issues, often receiving cash to help purchase new gear to see you through your journey, or covering the costs of the trip if it does get delayed or cancelled. Depending on where you are going, you might not have much legal recourse to recover the funds you've spent otherwise.

As mentioned MedEx of United Healthcare Global can offer travel insurance plans that can provide these levels of protection and more. The company offers plans that can cover travelers for a minimum of 7-days overseas up to a full year abroad. Customers have access to a 24/7 emergency response team that can help answer questions and lend assistance as needed, offering advice on a wide variety of topics.

MedEx has three plan levels that offer a variety of coverages ranging from $50k to $500k in medical insurance, the handling of records and other information, medical and dental referrals, transferal of medication prescriptions and more all for just a few dollars per day. Their coverage also includes emergency travel options, replacement of lost travel documents, legal referrals, transportation to medical facilities, and lots of other things you don't tend to consider until you run into a problem while traveling.  (Note: MedEx of United Healthcare Global is not available for purchase by residents of Washington State or New York)

I've been fortunate that I haven't had to use my travel insurance while on a trip, but I have been with others who have. For instance, while visiting Everest Base Camp a few years back, one of the members of my group became incredibly sick due to the altitude. She needed to be taken to the nearest hospital as quickly as possible, and received emergency treatment for high altitude pulmonary edema. Similarly, last year when I was climbing Kilimanjaro two members of the team had to be taken off the mountain via helicopter when one had a severe allergic reaction to something she came in contact with, while the other was once again suffering from altitude sickness. In both cases, travel insurance covered the costs of the evacuations and the medical treatment that followed.

And if you need yet another reason why you should carry travel insurance while traveling abroad, consider this. Many adventure travel companies now make it mandatory that you have coverage before you depart on the trip. Some will offer their own plans of course, while others will allow you to choose the company that you want to work with. If that is the case, you should definitely look for a quote from MedEx. Not only are their insurance plans very reasonably priced, they give you the coverage that you need for the destinations you are visiting. Keep in mind, depending on the activities that you plan on doing, you may need to add a sports rider as well to ensure that your coverage handles whatever things you choose to do while on the road.

Find out more by visiting the MedEx website and pricing out the plans that best fit your needs.

Antarctica 2015: Season Extended as Final Team Nears the Pole

The 2015 Antarctic season has now entered its final days. Weeks ago the last flight off the frozen continent was scheduled to take place yesterday – January 28, but it seems that deadline as been extended. With one team still out on the ice, that last plane out has been delayed by a few days in order to let them finish.

A few days back, Devon McDiarmid and Stew Edge completed their return trip to the Union Glacier camp. They had skied the full distance from Hercules Inlet to the South Pole along with two other explorers, but rather than hop a flight back to the coast they elected to kite-ski instead. They made good time, wrapping up their journey in less than 9 days. They've now departed Antarctica however, which leaves just Emma Kelty, and her guide Pachi Ibarra still out on the ice.

Emma has been making daily updates on her progress, and according to her dispatches she and Pachi crossed the 89th degree on Wednesday. She now estimates that they will reach the South Pole on Tuesday of next week, which is February 2. No doubt they'll find a plane waiting for them ready to whisk them back to Union Glacier, and eventually Punta Arenas.

It has been a very long, and difficult slog for Emma who started off with guide Carl Alvy and another skier. That skier was forced to pull the plug on his expedition, leaving Emma and Carl to push on without him. Last week, Carl had to depart due to other commitments, so Pachi stepped in to escort the British adventurer across the final couple of degrees to the Pole. Now, they're closing in on that point, but it hasn't been easy. They're covering approximately 12 nautical miles (22 km/13.8 miles) each day in order to wrap up the expedition early next week, and considering how exhausted Emma is at this point, that can't be easy. Fortunately, the sleds are a lot lighter than they were when they started, which makes it a bit easier to make progress.

When Kelty reaches the Pole next week, the curtain will drop on what has been a long – and tragic – season at the bottom of the world. Hopefully she reaches her goal safe and sound, and gets off the continent safely. Until then, we'll be keeping a close eye on her progress.

Video: Timelapse Of Magic Iceland

A timelapse video of Iceland. Thats all you need to know about the short film below. Those words alone should tell you how beautiful it is. Just hit play and enjoy.

My magic Iceland | Timelapse from MY WORLD MY MAGIC on Vimeo.

Winter Climbs 2016: Summit Push Underway on Nanga Parbat

The weather conditions on Nanga Parbat seem surprisingly good for this time of year. That has given hope to the four remaining teams hoping to complete the first winter ascent of that mountain. While nothing is ever a sure thing when it comes to high altitude mountaineering, there is a weather window that is currently open and is expected to last into the weekend, and with two teams currently high on the Nanga's slopes, we could be about to see history made.

The team that we know the most about includes Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol. They set out a few days back, and while they aren't exactly sharing tons of information, we do know that they reached Camp 2 at 6500 meters (21,325 ft) on Monday, and are now pushing further up the hill. They should have at least reached Camp 3 by now, which could put them within striking distance of the summit over the next few days.

Meanwhile, Italian climbers Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger also set off on an alpine style ascent a few days back, but true to form they're staying mostly off the radar. There have been no updates on their progress since late last week, so they could also be ready to complete a summit push. We'll just have to wait for their next update to know for sure.

It should be noted that while the weather conditions on Nanga Parbat are listed as good, that is a relative term at best. During the winter, "good" still means high winds and extreme cold, which are simply par for the course during this season. At the moment, temperatures at the summit are said to be about -40ºC/F, so even if the current weather window holds, it won't be an easy ascent.

Elsewhere, the Polish Justice For All team has now reached 6650 meters (21,817 ft) and have established Camp 3. They're watching the winds very closely as well, and report that at least on their side of the mountain (Rupal Face) things are calm at the moment. They could potentially be getting ready to launch a summit bid of their own, although they haven't fixed ropes above their current position yet.

Finally, there has been no updates on the progress of Alex Txikon, Ali Sadapara, and Daniele Nardi over the past couple of days. We know that Txikon and Sadapara were planning to descend to Base Camp to rest after fixing ropes up to 6500 meters, and that Nardi was recovering from some minor injuries. It is likely that they are all still in place, and waiting to start their next rotation up the mountain as well.

I'll be keeping a close eye on the proceedings over the next couple of days. Lets keep our fingers crossed that one of these squads gets a chance at the summit, and that they all get back down safely.

Winter Climbs 2017: Txikon Back in Base Camp, Ready for Summit Attempt

At the end of last week I wrote that Spanish climber Alex Txikon had set out from Everest Base Camp to take advantage of a brief weather window that had opened on the mountain. At the time, there was some speculation that he might be making an attempt on the summit, although I suspected it would be his final acclimatization rotation instead. Now, after a very busy couple of days on the mountain, we know two things: The weather window has closed and Alex is ready to make history once again this winter. 

Txikon and his band of Sherpa climbing partners left BC last Thursday to make a push up the Lhotse Face. The team made solid time as they enjoyed good weather on their way up the mountain, first staying in Camp 2 for the night, before proceeding up to C3 the following day. Ultimately, they would establish Camp 4 at 7950 meters (26,082 ft) on Saturday, where they would deposit gear that will eventually be needed for the coming summit push. Once they dropped off the equipment, they immediately turned around and descended back down the mountain, with the Sherpas remaining in C2 while Alex himself continued back to Base Camp.

Now, all the members of the team have safely reached BC, where they are awaiting a storm that is expected to arrive early this week. That storm will bring high winds, lots of snow, and very cold conditions. But, it isn't expected to be a large weather pattern, and the forecast says it will move on later in the week. That means that another weather window could open within a few days, giving the team a chance to go for the summit at long last. 

Alex says that he is now full acclimatized but he needs rest before launching his summit bid. He'll get time to regather his strength while the weather is bad. Once the storm passes and he's had a few days to recuperate, the final push will begin. The Spaniard says that he is now ready to go and the stage has been set. All he needs is a stretch of good weather conditions and he will have a go at the summit. 

As if climbing Everest in the winter isn't challenging enough, Alex is also doing so without the use of bottled oxygen, something that has only been accomplished once in the past. You may recall that the Spanish climber is use to making history during the winter, as last year he was part of the squad that put up the first ascent of Nanga Parbat during that season as well. 

For now, just like Alex and his teammates, we have to sit and wait. But the next time he leaves BC, it should be for an attempt on the summit. I'll let you know when that happens and will have regular updates on his progress in the days ahead.